In a city filled with happening restaurants and award–winning chefs, it’s not exotic, unusual fare luring diners and earning accolades. No, the buzz in Charleston, and elsewhere across the country, is all about fresh, locally grown ingredients―grass-fed beef, Asian turnips, raw milk, and farm-fresh eggs.
Executive chef Mike Lata has long been a champion of the Slow Food and sustainable agriculture movement, relying on South Carolina farmers for the menu at his restaurant, Fig (www.eatatfig.com), and helping to found the local chapter of Slow Food USA.
“Slow Food USA is an educational organization dedicated to stewardship of the land and ecologically sound food production; to the revival of the kitchen and the table as centers of pleasure, culture, and community; and to the invigoration and proliferation of regional, seasonal culinary traditions,” says Lata.
Many of Charleston’s top restaurants, such as Slightly North of Broad, Hominy Grill, and Carolina’s, quickly embraced the “eat local” trend, making Charleston a hot ticket in the culinary landscape.
“We have several young, enthusiastic, and competitive chefs in Charleston who want to get involved, and luckily we have enough growers to supply all of them,” says Lata. “We also have a very savvy, knowledgeable market base that demands food with integrity.”
One young chef of note is Sean Brock of McCrady’s, who was a James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef of the Year nominee in 2008. He approached the restaurant’s owners a few years back about purchasing farmland. Now, with Brock and the restaurant staff―from owners to hostesses―providing labor, much of the food for the McCrady’s menu is gathered from the restaurant’s Wadmalaw Island farm.
Beyond patronizing restaurants that support local farmers, Lata recommends buying local for your own kitchen. “You’re likely to be buying truly fresh, seasonal, and artisanal foods,” he says. “And the majority of every dollar you spend stays in your community, sustaining the local economy and preserving your agricultural heritage.”
Local Growers on Mike Lata’s Rolodex:
- Anson Mills: Grits, polenta, rice, and cornmeal. 803/467-4122.
- Caw Caw Creek: Pasture-raised heirloom pork. 803/917-0794.
- Crosby’s Seafood: Local seafood. 843/937-0029.
- Green Grocer Farms: Grass-fed beef, raw milk, free-range eggs, and fresh produce. 843/559-5095.
- Keegan-Filion Farms: Free-range chicken. 843/538-2565.
- Rita’s Roots: Fresh produce. 314/856-3576.
Many local growers sell their foods at the Charleston Farmers Market. Call 843/724-7309 to inquire about specific vendors. To find local growers in your area, visit Slow Food USA.
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