As far as I know, I don't have a single drop of Italian blood flowing through my veins. However, from the very first time I visited Italy, years ago now, I felt an instant kinship. I have since fallen head over heels for every part of the country, from the top of the boot to the bottom, and no region more so than Tuscany. The food? Simply perfect. The wine? Bellissimo. The art and architecture? Breathtaking. But what I love most is the people -- welcoming and friendly -- and the way they approach life, so full of the ability to see and create beauty in even the smallest of things.
Without a doubt the tourism quotient has risen exponentially over the last decade or so. We partially have Frances Mayes, a good fellow Southerner, to thank for that. Her book Under the Tuscan Sun inspired millions of readers to dream of rescuing and restoring an abandoned villa, explore the countryside's intriguing hill towns, and immerse ourselves in the daily rhythms of Italian life. Alas, for me, renovating my very own Bramasole is not in the cards at the moment -- and I'm not so sure I'd really want to deal with all that eccesso di burocrazia (red tape) anyway.
But my husband, William, and I love calling Tuscany home, if only for a week or two at a time. We are particularly passionate about the Chianti region for its rolling hills and vineyards, plentiful wine (anyone who still associates Chianti only with cheap red wine served in straw baskets is in for a pleasant surprise), and simple but glorious food. Following are places we return to again and again. This is by no means meant to be a comprehensive list, but merely random thoughts on a few of our favorites. There is so much more we look forward to discovering with each visit.
Home Base
Rather than jump from hotel to hotel, we like to set down "roots" by choosing a central location in the area we're exploring, renting a villa or an apartment, and making our daily forays from there. We've had great luck with The Parker Company, who specializes in rentals all over Italy. They offer a wide selection of properties, from ones that will accommodate a couple traveling alone to large house parties, and most have history and charm to spare. Be sure to evaluate your needs and wish list before you choose: Offerings range from relatively spartan to luxurious. Maid service and meals can often be prearranged. 800/280-2811, www.theparkercompany.com.
Two of Our Favorite Towns to Explore
• Monteriggioni (near Siena)
We came upon this tiny walled hamlet on our first visit to Tuscany and have made sure to return multiple times. It is certainly
not the most famous -- or beautiful -- town in Tuscany, but it is my favorite. The medieval village dates back to the 13th
century, and its towers inspired those in Dante's Divine Comedy. My memory of our first visit was that it was relatively undiscovered. That has definitely changed (frankly, I'm not sure
there is anything left undiscovered in Tuscany) and tourist buses drop off their lot on a regular basis. But it is so small
-- it can be walked wall-to-wall in a matter of minutes -- that they don't stay long. A smattering of shops surround the piazza;
the church is simple and unassuming. But one of our favorite restaurants in Tuscany, Il Pozzo, is reason enough to visit.
My husband orders cinghiale (wild boar) every chance he gets and says this is the finest. I like the tartufo farfalle (pasta with truffles) cooked in parchment paper. The dining room is lovely, but we prefer to dine in the garden. No matter where we sit, we finish off the meal with a glass of vin santo made from the Monteriggioni vineyards and usually stop at the Fattoria Castello di Monteriggioni around the corner to buy a bottle to take home. And, if you're as charmed by this town as I am and want to stay, there's the pretty little Hotel Monteriggioni, where you can linger and experience the town after the day-trippers have left. Il Pozzo: 011-39-057-730-4127; www.ilpozzo.net. Fattoria Castello di Monteriggioni: 011-39-057-730-6015; www.fattoriacastellodimonteriggioni.com. Hotel Monteriggioni: 011-39-0577-305-009; www.hotelmonteriggioni.net.
• Panzano
We adore Panzano. In our minds it embodies everything we come to Italy for -- great food and great wine. If you don't mind
crowds, Sunday morning is market day and it's a fun but bustling time to go. Actually, market days are a must-do in almost
any Tuscan town. Most have them on a set day of the week and they are the ultimate for people-watching. Bypass the shoes and
clothes (I promise you won't find any hidden Armani or Prada) and head straight for the produce, cheese, and meat sellers.
Smell what's cooking in mysterious pots and pans, and watch the locals go about their important business.
There are several places in Panzano we love to visit, though mostly on non-market days to avoid the crowds!
• Antica Macelleria Cecchini
Owner Dario Cecchini is the rock star of butchers, with a booming voice and showmanship that has made him a favorite of world-renowned
chefs, locals, and tourists alike. Make no mistake: He knows his stuff -- his family has been in the butcher business for
generations and generations. We like to stop in to pick up some bistecca Toscano (thick, thick cuts of steak) and his special herb mix for grilling back in our villa at least one night during our stay.
Rest assured, if Cecchini is in the house, it's pure theater. 011-39-055-85-2020
• Enoteca Baldi
Right on the piazza, it's one of our favorite wine shops. Owner Mimmo Baldi knows his wine, speaks beautiful English, and
is generous with both! We always stop in to pick up a few bottles for picnics, before (and after) dinner drinks, etc. Why
is it in Italy that you can consume wine so liberally and never feel those dreaded aftereffects? 011-39-055-85-2843
• Il Vescovino
A meal with a view. It's at the top of the hill in Panzano and overlooks a picturesque valley of olive groves, vineyards,
and farmhouses. Traditional Tuscan dishes (you can try Cecchini's famous cuts of bistecca meant for two) and a stellar wine list. We wouldn't miss a chance to eat here and have even gone back more than once on a
visit. 011-39-055-856-0152
