London in Spring

After the short, dark days of winter, London experiences a riotous rebirth in spring. With the budding of the first cherry blossoms, the city's population seems to double. Suddenly, streets are crowded with baby strollers, battalions of sunseekers appear on grassy park slopes, and businessmen enjoy long picnic lunches in St. James's Park. Tulips push through the fertile soil, eventually bowing their heads in deference to the profusion of roses that border meandering park paths in June.

It's the ideal time to visit this bustling city, and designer Jane Churchill knows how to play hostess, though guests may need a little prodding to leave the comfortable surroundings of her home in the Belgravia neighborhood. A feisty, outspoken woman with a quick stride and an even quicker wit, she'll lead friends from across the pond on a fast and furious tour of her "patch" of London.

Her ideal three-day weekend begins on Friday near Chelsea. After a quick stop at La Bottega on Lower Sloane Street for what Churchill reckons is "the best cappuccino in London," she'll make the rounds along Pimlico Road, where she has her design studio. The street is chockablock with art and antiques dealers and furnituremakers. But in addition to shops such as Linley and John Hobbs, the thoroughfare also features one of her favorite clothing designers, Tomasz Starzewski, and Daylesford Organic The Garden, a florist with minimalist, sculptural creations that qualify as artworks unto themselves.

After pausing for lunch in the café of the Daylesford Organic store down the street, it's off to Soho for a stroll around Carnaby Street. "If you're coming from abroad, why walk down Bond Street, where you're going to see 5,000 shops that you have on Madison Avenue?" she asks. "This is so much more English, because there are little quirky shops selling stuff you don't need, but you probably can't resist."

If all that shopping has sparked the appetite, Churchill will take her guests to Refuel Bar and Restaurant at The Soho Hotel, which serves the sort of light, seasonal produce she favors, although the naturally slim designer admits that she can eat "like a long-distance lorry driver going to the electric chair." Finally, if her guests have the same indefatigable constitution as Churchill, they'll head to the theater.

On Saturday, it's off to Notting Hill. After breakfast at 202, where diners spill out onto the sidewalk of fashionable Westbourne Grove, Churchill will lead them along Portobello Road, where the famous Saturday market features everything from silver teapots and antique maps to handmade jewelry, jazz CDs, and old textiles -- Churchill's particular passion. Lunch may be a quick takeaway affair from Ottolenghi, a stylish purveyor of soups and salads balanced by decadent desserts, because she'll want guests to save room for dinner at Les Trois Garçons in east London.

Sunday starts with a leisurely brunch at The Wolseley, a dining room and former car showroom outfitted with grand arches, gilded accents, and a floor inlaid with black and white marble. If her guests overindulge, they'll welcome the opportunity to burn off calories later by walking through Hyde Park. When she finally bids them good-bye, they'll collapse exhausted into their airplane seats, but the spring in Churchill's step rarely falters.

Jane Churchill Interiors, 011-44-207-730-8564, www.janechurchillinteriors.com.

 

ART AND ANTIQUES

Appley Hoare Antiques
Specializing in Country French furniture and accessories, from well-worn trestle tables and antique urns to 18th-century root wood bowling balls. 22 Pimlico Rd., 011-44-207-730-7070, www.appleyhoare.com.

Christopher Butterworth
"They have everything," says Churchill, who looks here for lamps, chandeliers, and mirrors. "It's all kind of piled high and disorganized, and it's rather nice that there is a shop with that old sort of feel." 71 Pimlico Rd., 011-44-207-823-4554, www.christopherbutterworth.com.

Ciancimino
A mixture of antique and contemporary furniture. 85 Pimlico Rd., 011-44-207-730-9950, www.ciancimino.com.

John Hobbs Fine Antiques
Fine art and furniture. 107-A Pimlico Rd., 011-44-207-730-8369, www.johnhobbs.co.uk.

Linley
Bespoke furniture, ready-for-purchase furnishings, accessories, and lighting. 60 Pimlico Rd., 011-44-207-730-7300. Other locations: www.davidlinley.com.

Marston & Langinger
Conservatory furniture and other home furnishings. 192 Ebury St., 011-44-845-270-6688, www.marston-and-langinger.com.

Ramsay
A mixture of new and modern prints and pictures, as well as oil paintings. 69 Pimlico Rd., 011-44-207-730-6776.

Soane
Bespoke furniture, chairs, and lamps. 50 Pimlico Rd., 011-44-207-730-6400, www.soane.co.uk.

Westenholz Antiques, Ltd.
Specializing in antique British furniture and lighting. 76-78 Pimlico Rd., 011-44-207-824-8090, www.westenholz.co.uk.

 

FLORIST

Daylesford Organic The Garden
Lovely floral arrangements. 30 Pimlico Rd., 011-44-207-730-2943, www.daylesfordorganic.com.

 

CLOTHING

Starzewski
Tomasz Starzewski, who counted the late Princess Diana among his clientele, is known for his horizontal-pleated dress. 97 Pimlico Rd., 011-44-207-730-5559.

Zara (UK), Ltd.
"Zara's clothes are quite classical, but they're not frumpy," Churchill says. "The clothes fit well, they're nice material, they have great buttons, and they're cheap. It's the only shop I go into where I don't look at the prices." 79-81 Brompton Rd., 011-44-207-590-6960. Other locations: www.zara.com.
 

 

HOUSEWARES AND ACCESSORIES

Chloe Alberry
"They have wonderful doorknobs," Churchill says. Their extensive doorknob and drawer pull selection includes crystal, colored glass, brightly painted ceramics, porcelain, bone, turned wood, and an assortment of nickel-plated and brass antique hardware. 84 Portobello Rd., 011-44-207-727-0707, www.chloealberry.com.

OKA
"They're brilliant," Churchill says. "They sell household things -- everything from ready-made curtains to cutlery, china, linens, and candles -- that work in modern or traditional interiors." 60 Sloane Ave., 011-44-207-590-9895. Other locations: www.okadirect.com.

Warris Vianni & Co.
"There are quite fun shops on Golborne Road," says Churchill, who counts Warris Vianni & Co. among her favorites. "He has very good fabrics made in India, and they're not expensive. I got my drawing room curtain material there." 85 Golborne Rd., 011-44-208-964-0069, www.warrisvianni.com.
 

 

PARKS

Hyde Park
"I always walk in the park on Saturdays and Sundays," says Churchill, whose route leads her past Kensington Palace and around by the Serpentine Lake.

Ranelagh Gardens
"It's not really big enough to walk there, but if you want to go and sit or take children, Ranelagh Gardens at the back of the Royal Hospital is very pretty," Churchill says. The Royal Hospital is also the site of the annual Chelsea Flower Show, which is slated for May 20-24 this year. Royal Hospital Rd. (on the grounds of the Royal Hospital Chelsea), 011-44-207-881-5200, www.chelsea-pensioners.org.uk.
 

 

RESTAURANTS

202
This café features a large selection of teas alongside the breakfast and lunch menus. 202 Westbourne Grove, 011-44-207-727-2722, www.nicolefarhi.com.

Assaggi
People clamor for reservations at this unpretentious Italian restaurant located above a Notting Hill pub. 39 Chepstow Place, 011-44-207-792-5501.

Bangkok
"The best restaurant for Thai," she says. 9 Bute St., 011-44-207-584-8529.

Bellamy's Bruton Place
Dishes range from smoked Scottish salmon to cassolette of snails and three kinds of caviar. 18-18A Bruton Place, 011-44-207-491-2727, www.bellamysrestaurant.co.uk.

Blakes Hotel London
"They have the most amazing cheese soufflé, and the blackened cod is delicious," Churchill says. "It's very good for dinner." 33 Roland Gardens, 011-44-207-370-6701, www.blakeshotels.com.

Caraffini
"They have very good pasta, tuna, and salads," Churchill says. 61-63 Lower Sloane St., 011-44-207-259-0235, www.caraffini.co.uk.

Daylesford Organic Café and Store
"The soups are delicious," says Churchill, who may lunch at the sleek communal table or take a container of organic red-curry butternut and coconut soup to go. 44-B Pimlico Rd., 011-44-207-881-8060, www.daylesfordorganic.com.

Drones
Churchill recommends their roast chicken and smoked haddock. 1 Pont St., Belgravia, 011-44-207-235-9555, www.whitestarline.org.uk.

E&O Restaurant
Features Asian fusion fare, including Futo Maki rolls and sashimi. 14 Blenheim Crescent, 011-44-207-229-5454, www.rickerrestaurants.com.

Franco's
Italian-Mediterranean restaurant open since 1946. 61 Jermyn St., 011-44-207-499-2211, www.francoslondon.com.

La Bottega
Croissants, salads, and cappuccino. 65 Lower Sloane St., 011-44-207-730-8844, www.labottega65.com.

Les Trois Garçons
"Wonderfully eccentric and very, very good," Churchill says. "Hassan Abdullah (one of the three garçons behind the name) is so original and talented." The French-influenced fare is favored by the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow, Nicole Kidman, Jade Jagger, and Stella McCartney. 1 Club Row, 011-44-207-613-1924, www.lestroisgarcons.com.

Mediterraneo
Italian restaurant in Notting Hill near Portobello Road. 37 Kensington Park Rd., 011-44-207-792-3131, www.mediterraneo-restaurant.co.uk.

Osteria Basilico
Sister restaurant of Mediterraneo. 29 Kensington Park Rd., 011-44-207-727-9957, www.osteriabasilico.co.uk.

Ottolenghi
Salads, soups, and desserts. 63 Ledbury Rd., 011-44-207-727-1121. Other locations: www.ottolenghi.co.uk.

Pellicano Restaurant
Stop here for Italian if you're in the Chelsea neighborhood. 19-21 Elystan St., 011-44-207-589-3718, www.pellicanorestaurant.co.uk.

Refuel Bar and Restaurant
European cuisine featuring seasonal organic produce. The Soho Hotel, 4 Richmond Mews, 011-44-207-559-3000, www.firmdale.com.

The Wolseley
"The Wolseley is brilliant," Churchill insists. "I like the building, the staff, the doorman, the owner, and the food. It's consistently good." 160 Piccadilly, 011-44-207-499-6996, www.thewolseley.com.