Houston, Texas

Think you know Houston? You might be surprised. Its image as an energy, medical, and financial hub belies a city with a thriving arts community; charming, tree-filled neighborhoods; and sophisticated shopping and dining. A few of our favorite Houstonians―designer Randy Powers, jewelry designer Joanie Herring, developer Carol Isaak Barden, and philanthropist Becca Cason Thrash―share the flip side of America's fourth-largest city

Lifestyle

Although the bayou city has earned a reputation as a sprawling megalopolis with a patchwork layout often viewed as chaotic rather than quirky, the bad rap unfairly overshadows the city's strong suits: well-planned, in-town neighborhoods; a downtown historic sector undergoing a transformation; and a No. 1 ranking among U.S. cities in total acres of parkland. "Those who are fortunate enough to live in the center of Houston find that it's like a small town with big-city amenities," says architectural historian Stephen Fox. "Things are very close together. You don't have to get on the freeway, you can walk in parts of the city, and you can use the metro light-rail line as an alternative to a car." Here's a roundup of a few notable Houston neighborhoods.

River Oaks

Two miles west of Downtown, River Oaks is Houston's most desirable neighborhood, "where houses are bought and sold without signs," says Carol Isaak Barden. It's home to lawyers, CEOs, athletes, and some of the city's best parties. "River Oaks was developed between the mid-'20s and late '40s by a remarkable Houston family," says Fox. "Will Hogg developed River Oaks in his effort to establish a sort of model of modern community planning, which the rest of Houston could follow." Though they didn't.

The ambitious 1,100-acre community designated space for shopping areas, parks, and schools. Restrictive covenants enforced by the property owners association ensure the integrity of the neighborhood. A mélange of styles, from English Tudor to Georgian to Spanish Revival, can be found here on large, treed lots facing gently curving streets that lend a feeling of spaciousness. "Because much of River Oaks was built in the '20s and '30s, it contains a wonderful collection of important houses from those decades," Fox says. "Unfortunately, some of them are being demolished. At the same time, other people are spending extraordinary sums of money on rehabilitating some of the most architecturally notable houses and in some cases building distinguished new houses in the neighborhood." www.ropo.org.

Downtown

As in many large cities, in-town loft living has become increasingly popular. "The transformation of the historic sector of downtown into a residential neighborhood was a trend that began in the mid-'90s and came to fruition in the early 21st century," says Fox, adding that the process is ongoing. The makeover began with a few individual investors buying and remodeling a building, and then commercial developers got involved. "That has led to the preservation and rehabilitation of many of the most architecturally significant early 20th-century commercial buildings," says Fox. Today, former offices such as the Southern Pacific and Commerce buildings now house rental lofts, condominiums, and, in some cases, hotels. The luxe Hotel Icon is in the former Union National Bank building. Young professionals and empty nesters alike are drawn to Downtown's live/work/play lifestyle. The theater district and Minute Maid Park are nearby, and the light-rail line means an easy commute to the city's top museums and medical center. www.houstondowntown.com.

Museum District and West University Place

According to Fox, some of the city's most attractive residential areas are adjacent to the Museum District, one of the most picturesque being Broadacres, which is within walking distance of the Museum of Fine Arts. "It is fairly small, just two parallel streets: North and South boulevards," he says. "They were planned in the early '20s by architect William Ward Watkin. He planted those two streets in what was intended as an upper income residential neighborhood, with live oaks six across, four of those rows being in a wide central esplanade." The small neighborhood (only about 40 acres) remains elite, though the parklike esplanades are enjoyed by everyone.

Nearby neighborhoods, such as West University Place, are also popular because of access to shopping, dining, and Rice University. Young professionals are attracted to West U because it's an incorporated city in the center of Houston with its own fire and police departments. "It was traditionally a middle to lower-middle income neighborhood," says Fox. "Very respectable but not at all fashionable." That's changing now as real estate prices rise and small bungalows built between 1920 and 1950 are remodeled or torn down, with larger and more expensive homes being built in their place. www.houstonmuseumdistrict.org, www.westu.org.

 

Hotels & Restaurants

Quintessential Texas fare is unequivocally barbecue and Tex-Mex, and Houston dishes up great examples of each. Goode Company Barbecue is considered the best. The parking lot of its Kirby Drive restaurant is often packed with both dusty pickups and slick luxury cars. Bring up who serves the best margaritas in town, and a lively debate is sure to ensue.

The city also has a great balance of upscale dining and friendly neighborhood spots. And there are plenty of restaurants that speak to the area's international population.

As for accommodations, book a room downtown -- you'll be close to the theater district and can easily take the light-rail to the museum district―or in the River Oaks and uptown areas, near the city's best shopping.

 

WHERE TO STAY 

Four Seasons Hotel Houston
A downtown mainstay for 25 years. When Houston temps soar, take advantage of the recently revamped rooftop pool. 1300 Lamar St., 713/650-1300, www.fourseasons.com.

Hotel Derek
Stylish and sleek interiors and a great restaurant, Bistro Moderne. "A lot of people like Hotel Derek because it's so convenient to The Galleria," suggests Powers. 2525 West Loop S, 713/961-3000, www.hotelderek.com.

Hotel Icon
"It's located in an old brownstone building, and every room is different," says Herring. 22 Main St., 713/224-4266, www.hotelicon.com.

Houstonian Hotel
"Very 'Houston cozy,' " says Herring. "And the spa is great." 111 North Post Oak Ln., 713/680-2626, www.houstonian.com.

St. Regis, Houston
"I don't like the jostle of hip or quirky hotels," says Barden. "My visiting friends agree and choose the stately St. Regis located in a wooded park about a mile from The Galleria. Include the traditional afternoon tea, with butler and harpist, in your stay." 1919 Briar Oaks Ln., 713/840-7600, www.stregis.com/houston.

 

WHERE TO EAT

Armandos
Suggests Thrash: "Order the Patrón Silver margaritas and the queso flameado. It's so good that you could bathe in it." 2630 Westheimer Rd., 713/520-1738, www.armandoshouston.com.

Avalon Diner
"Fun for kids," says Herring. "Great omelets and burgers." 2417 Westheimer Rd., 713/527-8900, www.avalondiner.com.

Brennan's of Houston
The highly regarded New Orleans restaurant family brings Texas Creole to Houston. 3300 Smith St., 713/522-9711, www.brennanshouston.com.

Cafe Annie
"I like to eat at the bar of Cafe Annie," says Powers. "The thing I order the most is a salad of tuna and beets. I crave it. They also have the most amazing french fries coated in Parmesan cheese, and their lamb chops are unbelievable." 1728 Post Oak Blvd., 713/840-1111, www.cafe-annie.com.

Catalan Food & Wine
Spanish-influenced menu. "Order the foie gras bon bons," suggests Herring. 5555 Washington Ave., 713/426-4260, www.catalanfoodandwine.com.

Da Marco
"The best Italian restaurant. Period," says Thrash. "If it weren't on Westheimer, it would be on the Via Del Corso in Rome." 1520 Westheimer Rd., 713/807-8857, www.damarcohouston.com.

Frenchy's Chicken
"An aesthetic movement," says Powers. This fast-food joint isn't necessarily known for fall-all-over-you service, but with chicken (and fries and red beans and rice) so good, who cares? 3919 Scott St., 713/748-2233. For other locations, visit www.frenchyschicken.com.

Goode Company Barbecue
The barbecue may be famous, says Powers, but it's the pecan pie that makes it trip-worthy. 5109 Kirby Dr., 713/522-2530. For other locations, visit www.goodecompany.com.

Gravitas Restaurant
"Jason Gould turns out a consistent but creative menu," says Thrash, describing the place as having a New York vibe. "Get the trout amandine." 807 Taft St., 713/522-0995, www.gravitasrestaurant.com.

The Grove
Launched by chef Robert Del Grande (of Cafe Annie fame), this new restaurant sited downtown in a grove of oaks serves an American rustic menu. The terrace offers great views of the Houston skyline. 1611 Lamar St., 713/337-7321.

Hugo's
"Great Mexican with the best quesadillas," says Herring. 1600 Westheimer Rd., 713/524-7744, www.hugosrestaurant.net.

Mark's American Cuisine
"Mark Cox manages to dazzle a full house most every night with food that's inventive but never too fussy," says Barden. "The restaurant is located in a renovated 1920s church with gold ceilings." 1658 Westheimer Rd., 713/523-3800, www.marks1658.com.

Monarch Restaurant & Lounge
In the over-the-top Hotel Zaza. For the best restaurant view in Houston, Thrash suggests reserving the table in front of the Mecom Fountains. 5701 Main St., 713/526-1991, www.hotelzaza.com/houston.

Ninfa's on Navigation
Herring recommends the margaritas and nachos. 2704 Navigation Blvd., 713/228-1175, www.mamaninfas.com.

Onion Creek
Casual, neighborhood joint in the Heights community serving salads, sandwiches, and burgers. On Saturdays, a farmers market is held behind the café. 3106 White Oak Blvd., 713/880-0706, www.onioncreekcafe.com.

Paulie's
"For a neighborhood feel, go to Paulie's," says Powers. "They are famous for their shortbread cookies." The salads and panini are tops too. 1834 Westheimer Rd., 713/807-7271, www.pauliescookies.com.

Shade
"I order the Shade Caesar salad with chicken," says Herring. Chef Jeb Stuart tops it with fried capers, grape tomatoes, hearts of palm, and garlic croutons. 250 West 19th St., 713/863-7500, www.shadeheights.com.

Sugarbaby's Cupcake Boutique
Va-Va-Vanilla, Velvet Rouge, Black Forest, Chocolate Covered Strawberry -- skip your main meal and have your just desserts. 3310 South Shepherd, 713/527-8427, www.ilovesugarbabys.com.

T'afia
Chef Monica Pope, a 2007 James Beard Award nominee, is a champion of local farmers and producers. Make reservations for Friday's prix fixe lunch. 3701 Travis St., 713/524-6922, www.tafia.com.

Tiny Boxwood's
Thompson + Hanson's charming new café boasts lovely environs and great espresso. 3614 West Alabama St., 713/622-4224, www.thompsonhanson.com.

Tony's
Powers describes it as a "see and be seen" kind of place where the service is top-notch and French and Italian flavors are combined. 3755 Richmond Ave., 713/622-6778, www.tonyshouston.com.

Voice Restaurant and Lounge
A preview tasting prior to its grand opening left Barden raving about executive chef Michael Kramer's new "Houston-centric" venture in Hotel Icon. 220 Main St., 713/224-4266, www.hotelicon.com.