The Greenbrier

History: The Greenbrier has always made a splash with the refurbishments of its interiors. In 1946, legendary designer Dorothy "banish the beige!" Draper descended on the property to restore the languishing resort to its former glory after it had served briefly as a World War II Army hospital. Life magazine called the reopening weekend -- attended by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor and a young John F. Kennedy -- "the most lavish on-the-house party of the century." Draper's décor was equally lauded as "a Technicolor surprise" and "refreshing, like having Aqua Velva splashed on your face." Today, decades after the designer worked her magic, the resort maintains its design-driven tendencies, thanks to the watchful eye and careful tweaks of Draper's successor, the equally celebrated Carleton Varney.

What's making news: The management recently checked the 230-year-old grande dame in for a refresher, refurbishing numerous guest rooms by adding plasma screen televisions, contemporary furnishings, and marble bathrooms with soaking tubs. A sultry-chic new lounge, 38°80 (the latitude and longitude of The Greenbrier), and the new dining room, Hemisphere, give the resort a fresh, frisky energy that remains true to the Draper spirit.

Southern comfort: The Greenbrier personifies Southern hospitality, from the warm welcome at check-in to the gracious, relaxed vibe at afternoon tea and the elegant efficiency come mealtime. The long-running staff -- a handful of whom have worked at the resort for more than 50 years -- greet repeat visitors by name and, remarkably, can tick off a regular's likes and dislikes with little pause.

What to do: Partake of any of the numerous activities taking place on the grounds -- such as golf at the three championship courses (including the renowned Old White), mountain biking, trail rides, driving lessons in a Range Rover, croquet, tennis, and shopping (don't miss the very posh Polo Ralph Lauren outpost). Then prepare for a glittering evening ahead: Sip a cool martini in the chinoiserie-styled lobby bar, and then proceed to dinner under jewellike chandeliers. After your meal, head to the resort's retro movie theater for a first-run flick paired with freshly popped popcorn.

Not to miss: Wander up and down the resort's football field-length hallways; you'll encounter a spirited decorative sizzle wherever you look. Venture past the main dining room with its floor-to-ceiling shutters and rhododendron-emblazoned carpet, and kick back in the Virginia Room with its wraparound murals depicting the resort's resplendent history. Enjoy lunch under the watchful portrait of a youthful DD at Draper's Café with its exuberant plasterwork and bold pink-and-white striped awnings. Relax in the main lobby as the pianist channels Cole Porter, or visit the long-secret U.S. Relocation Facility (built during the Cold War to house the U.S. government in case of a nuclear attack). Take a guided tour of the resort's public spaces, or savor a soak in sulphur waters of the luxe 40,000-square-foot spa. And be sure to splash about in the enormous indoor tiled pool. Equally wonderful is the resort's Art Colony with its shops selling everything from shimmering minerals to ornate leather masks. The nearby town of Lewisburg offers galleries, antiques shops, and bustling eateries.

Accommodations: The Greenbrier's accommodations are certainly not for the minimalist-seeking, modernist-bent crew; this décor is all about drowsy, decadent, oversize blooms. Color-packed rooms will leave you breathless. Expect pinks, greens, more pinks, and more greens, and plenty of floral-strewn window and wall treatments. At night, the hallways have charming signs posted at the elevator banks urging guests to speak quietly, for "it's sleepy time down South." If you seek a room a bit more removed -- but no less colorful -- stay in any of the 96 historic cottages and estate homes scattered along the resort's paths and byways.

300 West Main St., 800/453-4858, www.greenbrier.com.