A Colonial Christmas

Few sights may be more welcoming than a nighttime window bathed in light. That would make Colonial Williamsburg in December one of the most welcoming places around, and perhaps it is. Hundreds of windows glow along its streets, and thousands of visitors gather for just one night: Grand Illumination -- the kickoff to the holiday season, when trees twinkle with lights, candles burn in windows, and fireworks light up the sky.

But the other nights and days of December also share in the spirit of celebration that is so distinct to Williamsburg. Many of us associate fruit-laden wreaths, transoms filled with apple fans, and pineapple-topped pyramids with traditional Christmas décor. But those traditions aren't as timeworn as one might think: They come to us by way of a 20th-century interpretation of Colonial tastes.

Colonial Williamsburg was first opened to the public in 1934, thanks to the vision of John D. Rockefeller Jr. and the Rev. W. A. R. Goodwin, rector of Bruton Parish Church. But it was one Louise Fisher, in charge of fresh flowers for exhibitions at the time, who researched the Colonial spirit of decorating for the holiday -- without much luck. So instead of relying on sparse historical details or jarringly incompatible modern tastes, a compromise was reached. Historically significant English prints and documents, as well as natural materials available to colonists in the 18th century, would inspire the decorations.

Influenced by the popular fruit garlands of Renaissance artist Luca della Robbia, the iconic prints of a month's worth of flowers or fruit by English nurseryman Robert Furber, and the naturalistic wood carvings of England's Grinling Gibbons, the look that evolved during the late 1930s became a signature of Colonial Williamsburg and of the season as we now know it.

Though the colonists surely would not have decorated with the pomp of today's season, the adornments at Williamsburg are in keeping with the spirit of its history. The materials used -- apples, pinecones, boxwood sprigs -- are so common that they take on a timelessness and grace that visitors study, photograph, and often attempt to re-create in their own homes. And visitors have been doing that for decades.

Today, town residents continue the long-standing tradition of hosting a holiday decorating competition. The natural wreaths, lights, and swags of pine garland all point to a much simpler and more romantic story -- the best of the vitality and hospitality of the 18th century brought forth to the present.

IF YOU GO

• Colonial Williamsburg is open 365 days a year. Depending on your constitution, there may be no better time to visit than the holidays. It's cold, yes, but there are house tours, taverns, and shops where you can find shelter.
• Duck into the King's Arms tavern on Duke of Gloucester Street for a bowl of peanut soup and a pint of ale. Wander through the many shops in the district, where gifts such as reproduction creamware, linens, candlesticks, and old-fashioned children's toys can be sent directly from the shops to your room.
• On East Francis Street, the Williamsburg Inn, which underwent a substantial renovation three years ago, defines cozy with its Regency-style appointments. Warm up by the fireplaces in the grand lobby, or request a guest room with a fireplace and a few extra logs. The new tearoom and Restoration Bar are great for refreshment, and in addition to an extensive wine list and sumptuous menu items such as Chateaubriand, the formal Regency Dining Room has live music and dancing on the weekends. Not surprisingly, the inn fills up quickly.

RESOURCES: Contact Colonial Williamsburg by calling 800/447-8679 or visiting www.colonialwilliamsburg.com or www.history.org. For reservations at the King's Arms tavern, call 800/828-3767. For reservations at the Williamsburg Inn, call 800/447-8679.