Maryland's Eastern Shore

Discover the best shopping, dining, sightseeing, and more in this idyllic waterfront enclave

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Maryland's Eastern Shore

Erik Johnson

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It’s an unhurried life along Maryland’s Eastern Shore, where Rockwellian main streets and front-porch neighborhoods remain. Our friends along the shore -- designer Fiona Newell Weeks, designer and shop owner Kim Ruark, restaurateur Sidney Trond, and antiques specialist Dyanne Welte -- share the region’s small-town appeal.

Livability
The area has many charms, chief among them the 600 miles of shoreline. Watermen have long been drawn to the area, which is popular among second-home owners, particularly D.C. politicos. Architect Charles Goebel highlights the most popular spots.

Easton
Goebel sums up Easton as the commercial hub and home to locals. “It’s more of a complete town. Everything you expect to find -- airport, library, shopping -- is here,” he says. A walk around downtown invites an architecture lesson as Victorian, Federal, Beaux Arts, and mid-20th-century examples lie within a few blocks. “They all fit comfortably together even though they are from a wide span of time,” says Goebel.

St. Michaels
“St. Michaels has gone from a watermen’s community, a working community, to something else entirely,” says Goebel, noting how the town swells on weekends as day-trippers and vacation-home owners arrive. Boutiques, restaurants, and bed-and-breakfasts line Talbot Street, the main avenue. “Architecturally, the essence is Victorian,” he says.

Oxford
“Oxford has an older feel to it, a more genteel, quieter feel,” says Goebel. “It’s more residential. You can sense where the original development was along the water, primarily Morris Street.” One of the most coveted addresses is along The Strand, where stately Victorian homes greet passengers aboard the Oxford-Bellevue Ferry.

Hotels & Restaurants

For locals, a nice dinner out used to require a drive to Annapolis or Washington, D.C. Thankfully, that’s no longer the case. The region still offers casual seafood joints where you can order beer and blue crabs and watch the sun dip beyond the bay. But there are white-tablecloth establishments too. Try Scossa, which features Northern Italian cuisine, or Mason’s, where Fiona Newell Weeks suggests the white truffle gnocchi. As for accommodations, the small towns are void of your typical high-rise chain hotels and are, instead, brimming with bed-and-breakfasts. If you prefer a luxury hotel, we suggest The Inn at Perry Cabin in St. Michaels. The waterfront manor house boasts great views, as well as a top-notch spa and restaurant.

WHERE TO STAY

Five Gables Inn and Spa
“This bed-and-breakfast is truly a haven for relaxing,” says Weeks. 209 North Talbot St., St. Michaels; 410/745-0100; www.fivegables.com.

Inn at 202 Dover
Convenient to downtown Easton’s restaurants and shops. 202 East Dover St., Easton; 866/450-7600; www.innat202dover.com.

The Inn at Perry Cabin
“It’s on the water, and the rooms are gorgeous. They have a wonderful new spa,” says Kim Ruark. 308 Watkins Ln., St. Michaels; 410/745-2200; www.perrycabin.com.

WHERE TO EAT

208 Talbot
Reserve a Saturday spot for their prix-fixe menu. 208 Talbot St., St. Michaels; 410/745-3838; www.208talbot.com.

Bella Luna
It gets crowded on Monday nights when many restaurants are closed, so be sure to make reservations. 25942 Royal Oak Rd., Royal Oak; 410/745-6100; www.bellalunarestaurant.net.

Blue Crab Coffee Co.
“On Saturdays, I hit Blue Crab for a cup of coffee before heading to the farmers market,” says Ruark. 102 Fremont St., St. Michaels; 410/745-4155; www.bluecrabcoffee.com.

Bistro St. Michaels
“The best mussels and Caesar salad,” says Dyanne Welte. 403 South Talbot St., St. Michaels; 410/745-9111; www.bistrostmichaels.com.

Coffee East
“Wonderful coffees, breakfasts, and lunches,” says Weeks. “And it’s fun to watch the trivia contests on Thursdays.” 5 Goldsborough St., Easton; 410/819-6711; www.coffeeeast.com.

The Crab Claw Restaurant
“In St. Michaels, there are several sunset decks with The Crab Claw’s being the most popular,” says Welte. Route 33 West, Navy Point; 410/745-2900; www.thecrabclaw.com.

Foxy’s Marina Bar
“A nice place for drinks on the water,” says Weeks. 125 Mulberry St., St. Michaels; 410/745-4340; www.foxysstmichaels.com.

Hair O’ the Dog Wine & Spirits
“Terrific selection and a fun atmosphere,” says Weeks. 8168-A Elliott Rd. (410/763-8600) or 219 Marlboro Ave. (410/820-4700), Easton; www.hair-o-the-dog.com.

Hill’s Drug Store
Though the store was recently remodeled, its old-fashioned soda fountain remains. 30 East Dover St., Easton; 410/822-2666; www.hillsdrugstore.com.

Key Lime Café
“I splurge on the waffles stuffed with strawberry cream cheese,” says Ruark. 207 North Talbot St., St. Michaels; 410/745-3158; www.keylime-cafe.com.

Latitude 38 Bistro & Spirits
Their menu, featuring local seafood and produce, changes every two weeks. 26342 Oxford Rd., Oxford; 410/226-5303; www.latitude38.org.

Legal Spirits Restaurant/Tavern
The Shore Boys cream of crab soup and cream of charred tomato soup make it a must. 42 East Dover St., Easton; 410/820-0765; www.shoreboys.com.

Local Restaurant
Ruark suggests this spot for a late-night meal outside by the fireplace. Tidewater Inn, 101 East Dover St., Easton; 410/819-8088; www.restaurantlocal.com.

The Masthead at Pier Street Marina
“Don’t miss their corn fritters,” says Welte. 104 West Pier St., Oxford; 410/226-5171; www.latitude38.org.

Mason’s
“A local favorite for fine dining,” says Weeks. “The restaurant has a wonderful garden for dining.” 22 South Harrison St., Easton; 410/822-3204; www.masonsgourmet.com.

Pope’s Tavern
“Whether you pull up by boat or car, you will love every mouthful,” says Weeks. Oxford Inn, 504 South Morris St., Oxford; 410/226-5220; www.oxfordinn.net.

Railway Market
“A natural grocery store that also has prepared meals and sandwiches,” says Weeks. 108 Marlboro Ave., Ste. 1, Easton; 410/822-4852.

Scossa
“Don’t miss the Northern Italian cuisine at this Easton restaurant,” says Welte. 8 North Washington St., 410/822-2202, www.scossarestaurant.com.

The Scottish Highland Creamery
Homemade ice creams with local milk, cream, and fruit. 314 Tilghman St., Oxford; 410/924-6298; www.scottishhighlandcreamery.com.

Shore
Have Sunday brunch with a waterfront view. It’s owned by the Tronds. 101 North Harbor Rd., St. Michaels; 410/924-4769; www.shorerestaurant.net.

Town Dock Restaurant
“Take the harbor’s water taxi and check out chef Michael Rork’s famous rockfish dinners,” says Welte. 125 Mulberry St., St. Michaels; 410/745-5577; www.town-dock.com.

 

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