The Kentucky Derby: An Insiders Guide

HOTELS & RESTAURANTS

"We usually have several visitors in town for the festivities, and my favorite part is welcoming guests and introducing them to Derby traditions," says Wells. Needless to say, Derby time brings with it scores of out-of-towners, ready for a taste of Louisville. They're looking for a well-rounded weekend beyond their time at the track. Though located in various spots around town, a few hotels and restaurants are simply synonymous with the Derby.

First of all, location and luxury are key when it comes to lodging. There are a couple of posh hotels in downtown Louisville with easy access to the track. Steeped in tradition, they also satisfy those looking for the new and unique.

Between races and parties, the Derby-goers, locals, and visitors alike can always squeeze in time to check out the city's finest fare at Louisville landmarks. Some eateries are institutions where patrons enjoy reminiscing about past experiences at Churchill Downs, especially the distinctive Jack Fry's, located on historic Bardstown Road.

Where to Eat

610 Magnolia
"It's very Louisville," says Louisville resident Hollis Starks, "just an elegant, timeless setting with exposed brick, beams, twinkling lights, and incredible food. If I were to bring visitors in for the Derby, I would call 610 Magnolia." 610 Magnolia, 502/636-0783, www.610magnolia.com.

Jack Fry's
"This was originally a neighborhood bar, not fancy, and a lot of the horse community went there before the crowds discovered it," says Louisville resident Ann Wells. "Now, there are a lot of great photos of past Derby winners. My great-aunt and great-uncle would go here after the track, and I love a story they used to tell me. My great-aunt met comedian Joe E. Brown at Jack Fry's, and from the time she met him, he sent her a dozen roses every year around Derby time." 1007 Bardstown Rd., 502/452-9244, www.jackfrys.com.

Le Relais
"One of our favorites," says Louisville resident Cynthia Greene. "Their food and service is always dependable, they have an excellent wine selection, and the Grand Marnier soufflé is just fabulous." 2817 Taylorsville Rd., 502/451-9020, www.lerelaisrestaurant.com.

Lilly's Bistro
"Kathy Cary is devoted to Kentucky farmers, and she really celebrates what we have," says Starks. "She uses a lot of local produce, and her food is wonderful." 1147 Bardstown Rd., 502/451-0447, www.lillyslapeche.com.

Wagner's Pharmacy
"Wagner's is a drugstore across from the track where a lot of backside track people―owners, trainers, and a mix of the racing hierarchy―eat breakfast right after the sunrise workout," says designer Susan Moloney. "It's a great place to catch up with the latest track scoop on Thursday before the big Derby race." 3113 South Fourth St., 502/375-3800.

Where to Stay

21C Museum Hotel
"A fabulous boutique hotel with a sophisticated modern art collection," says Starks. "And the location couldn't be better for the Derby." 700 West Main St., 502/217-6300, www.21cmuseumhotel.com.

The Brown Hotel
"Being an almost 80-year-old institution, the hotel just has so much Derby history, with stories about who has stayed there and what they did," says Wells. "I remember coming to The Brown as a child. The original owner was a regular at the track. I recall seeing him there when I was young." 35 West Broadway, 502/583-1234, www.brownhotel.com.

The Seelbach Hilton Louisville
"The rooms are decorated in old Kentucky fashion with four-poster beds," says Greene. "It's a homey atmosphere that's perfect for out-of-towners." 500 Fourth St., 502/585-3200, www.seelbachhilton.com.

SHOPPING

One primary goal of Derby weekend is to dress to impress. "From a female point of view, my friends and I know that it's important to have two or three different outfits ready," says Moloney.

With various engagements on their calendars that include brunches, galas, dinners, and the races themselves, planning what to wear is a top priority. Ladies make sure they don't duplicate outfits, and the northern Kentucky weather can be fickle, ranging from rain or snow to 92-degree sunny weather.

These go-to local shops keep sought-after designers' pieces in stock and are ready to lend a hand to ensure that you are appropriately attired. From simple suits with jackets to daring dresses and bold hats, here's where they find the apparel, jewelry, and of course, headwear, to guarantee a society page photo -- or at least a few enviable glances.

Where to Shop

Circe
"People generally step out of the box when it comes to Derby," says Jennifer Smith of Circe. "It's all about bright colors, bold prints, and being a little bit daring. A lot of our customers are asking for designs by Diane von Furstenberg, Tracy Reese, Tibi, Loeffler Randall, and Alice + Olivia." 3630 Brownsboro Rd., 502/894-0402, www.shopcirce.com.

Glasscock
"We're seeing a lot of customers looking for different shades of purple, as well as bright pink," says owner Mary F. Glasscock. "Feathers are going to be big this fall, and we've already had people looking for hats with feathers for the Derby. Popular designers for Derby outfits this year are Kay Unger and Naeem Khan." 153 Chenoweth Ln., 502/895-0212, www.glasscockinc.com.

LuLu's Beads
"Derby is a special time of year for Louisville," says Lucy Corley of LuLu's Beads. "People often come in with their Derby outfits, and I help them find accent jewelry pieces. I'm using a lot of coral, turquoise, tiger's eye, shells, and found objects and dressing up natural stones by adding an interesting clasp or using multiple strands. Large, chunky, and colorful jewelry is good this year, but we've also sold a lot of delicate pieces." 939 East Washington St., 502/899-5366.

Rodes and She at Rodes
"We're seeing a really pretty, color-rich spring," says Sue Vogt, co-owner of the 94-year-old family-run business. "Customers are really into bright colors such as mandarin and fuchsia, and it's a dress- and jacket-driven season. The clothes are feminine and frolicky. Our customers are looking at designs by Armani, St. John, and Tory Burch." 4938 Brownsboro Rd., 502/753-7633, www.rodes.com.

EVENTS

"My favorite thing about the Derby is that it marks the beginning of the spring social season in Louisville," says Greene. "It's an awakening of spring and summer for the city, and everyone is ready to celebrate."

Although the race at Churchill Downs is the main event, Derby season offers plenty of other activities, whether you're interested in breakfasts or brunches, exclusive galas, or annual community-wide gatherings. Some events, such as the Barnstable Brown party, a favorite of celebrities, might be best viewed in the papers if you can't get the hard-to-find tickets. But there's plenty to choose from on the Derby agenda.

What to Do

U.S. Bank Derby Festival Great Balloon Glow
More than 50,000 people attend this annual event to see the balloons inflate and glow against the night sky accompanied by music. Kentucky Exposition Center, 502/584-6383, www.kdf.org.

Kentucky Derby Museum Gala
"A beautiful black-tie party with cocktails, dinner, and dancing that is chaired by a good friend of mine, Douglas Riddle," says Moloney. "It is an elegant affair held under a big tent in the infield of Churchill Downs the week before the big race, and it benefits the museum." 502/637-1111, ext. 227, www.derbymuseum.org.

U.S. Bank Derby Festival Great Balloon Race
A local tradition not to miss, the balloon race is a visual feast of bright colors that began in 1973. Kentucky Exposition Center, 502/584-6383, www.kdf.org.

Great Steamboat Race and LVAA Boat Race Party
"This event benefiting the Louisville Visual Art Association is on the Ohio River. A great place to watch the steamboat race is from the historic Louisville Water Tower Park," says Moloney. This year's race is between the Belle of Louisville and the Delta Queen. 800/261-8586, www.kdf.org.

Oaks Brunch
"The Brown Hotel has a great luncheon in the ballroom the day of the Oaks race," says Greene. "It benefits the Kentucky Museum of Art and Craft, and there are pieces for sale by local artisans." 35 West Broadway, 502/589-0102, ext. 211, www.kentuckyarts.org.

Kentucky Oaks 134
This race kicks off the weekend for many Louisvillians. 502/636-4400, www.kentuckyoaks.com.

The Mint Jubilee Gala
The gala benefits the James Graham Brown Cancer Center at the University of Louisville and Gilda's Club Louisville. 502/562-3153, www.mintjubilee.org.

30th Annual Historic Homes Foundation Derby Breakfast at the Farmington Historic Home
"Wonderful for out-of-town guests," says Greene. "The home is furnished with period pieces, and tours are available. People love dining outside on the lawn." 3033 Bardstown Rd. For tickets, call 502/899-5079, or visit www.historichomes.org.

Grand Gala
Earth, Wind & Fire will perform at this year's gala, which benefits the 828 Foundation. Galt House Hotel & Suites, www.grandgala.com.

Kentucky Derby 134
"The best place to view the race is personal preference, but locals, horse owners, and trainers like the third floor Clubhouse section, close to the finish line but not past it, so they can hear the rumble of the horses' hooves on the track," says Moloney. "Visitors and celebrities prefer the new Skye Terrace or, of course, Millionares Row. After two straight days of parties, however, some think the best Derby seat is a comfortable one in front of the television." 502/636-4400, www.kentuckyderby.com.

RESOURCES: Moloney-Smith & Associates, 502/584-0024.