Destination: Louisville

Generally, Louisville enjoys a quiet bustle. But once a year all the city races: Derby weekend, when horses and pulses and bartenders quicken. With sprigs of mint and splashes of bourbon, Millionaire's Row at Churchill Downs is surely the most thrilling place to be in May. The Run for the Roses is thoroughbred racing at its best -- a scene reminiscent of F. Scott Fitzgerald's Jazz Age, when sports were genteel and boisterous pleasures required the most glamorous of hats.

The rest of the year, the city runs at a more relaxed clip, with an unpretentious hospitality and a traditional sensibility. Grand estates nestled on the banks of the Ohio River give way to winding roads that lead to neighborhoods with names like Cherokee Triangle and Indian Hills. Though named after France's Louis XVI, Louisville has a character more likely informed by the Speed family, whose 1816 Federal-style residence, Farmington, is now a well-tended historic house museum. The Speed Art Museum, the largest art museum in the state, underwent a $12 million renovation in the late 1990s and has plans for another major expansion.

Of course, no trip is complete without checking out the shopping scene. The best shops are concentrated mostly downtown or in the easternmost part of the city. Elaine Claire Antiques on Market Street offers a great selection of French antiques and decorative accessories and is within walking distance of several galleries and restaurants that have sprung up during the city's urban renewal. "Downtown is really becoming a destination," says proprietor Elaine Bordogna. Also on Market Street is Glassworks, which offers three studios for artists, as well as a gallery for fine handblown wares. And Architectural Salvage on East Broadway is for treasure hunters, with rooms and courtyards full of gems waiting to be discovered.

On Lexington Road, a short drive east of downtown, find English and Continental furniture and accessories at Trace Mayer Antiques, as well as at the adjoining Steve Tipton Antiques. Eclectic Bardstown Road is home to Frances Lee Jasper Oriental Rugs and two of Louisville's beloved restaurants: Jack Fry's and Lilly's. At Jack Fry's, it's the memorabilia-peppered setting that won't let you forget you're in Louisville; at Lilly's, it's the local ingredients.

Because the city is situated on the edge of the Bluegrass region and separated from Indiana by the river, Louisville and its surrounding area are often referred to as Kentuckiana. Much of the charm here comes from the horses, the rolling hills, and the long tradition of distilleries and good taste. But whether you visit for the glamour and rush of the Kentucky Derby or the simple pleasures of a quiet weekend and a stroll through the scenic waterfront park, downtown is where you'll want to unwind.

Home to the Louisville Ballet, the Louisville Orchestra, the Kentucky Opera, and the Actors Theatre, the downtown area also boasts the best hotels. A new boutique hotel, the 21C Museum Hotel, opened this spring. Its contemporary artwork and interiors are sure to complement the excellent service and plush rooms at The Brown Hotel, as well as the timeless Seelbach Hilton, where Fitzgerald found inspiration for a scene in The Great Gatsby.

With its blend of artistic and sporting pursuits and the comforts of great hotels and restaurants, Louisville stands as a classic Southern destination.

Our Favorites in Louisville

Where To Stay
 

• The Brown Hotel: Old-fashioned luxury with modern updates. 335 West Broadway, 502/583-1234.
• The Seelbach Hilton (pictured above): The 1905 hotel that inspired Fitzgerald, now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 500 South Fourth St., 502/585-3200.
• 21C Museum Hotel: Hip new hotel with a collection of 21st-century art. 700 West Main St., 502/217-6300.

Where To Eat

• English Grill at The Brown Hotel: Featuring the renowned creations of chef Joe Castro. 335 West Broadway, 502/583-1234.
• Jack Fry's: Great service and classic Continental fare. 1007 Bardstown Rd., 502/452-9244.
• Lilly's: Local ingredients and a neighborhood atmosphere. 1147 Bardstown Rd., 502/451-0447.
• Park Place on Main: Chic restaurant at Slugger Field. 401 East Main St., 502/515-0172.

Where To Shop

• Architectural Salvage: Masses of light fixtures, garden ornaments, and hardware. 618 East Broadway, 502/ 589-0670.
• Elaine Claire Antiques: French antiques and decorative accessories. 712 East Market St., 502/584-0843.
• Frances Lee Jasper Oriental Rugs: Antique and decorative rugs. 1330 Bardstown Rd., 502/459-1044.
• Louisville Stoneware: Handmade and hand-painted wares. 731 Brent St., 502/582-1900.
• Objects of Desire Gallery: Annual Derby hat exhibition beginning in April and lasting through Derby weekend. 1503 Bardstown Rd.,502/458-4164.
• Steve Tipton Antiques: Mainly Continental antiques, including French, Italian, and German. 3700 Lexington Rd., 502/895-1659.
• Trace Mayer Antiques: Specializing in English antiques and accessories. 3700 Lexington Rd., 502/899-5335.

What To Do

• Actors Theatre: 316 West Main St., 800/428-5849.
• Churchill Downs: Home of the Kentucky Derby. 700 Central Ave, 502/636-4400.
• Farmington Historic Home: Explore life on a 19th-century plantation. 3033 Bardstown Rd., 502/452-9920.
• Glassworks: Glassblowers in action and a great gift shop. 815 West Market St., 502/992-3056.
• Kentucky Museum of Art and Craft: Great exhibitions and tempting wares from regional artisans. 715 West Main St., 502/589-0102.
• Kentucky Opera: 101 South Eighth St., 800/690-9236.
• Louisville Ballet: 315 East Main St., 502/583-3150.
• Louisville Orchestra: 300 West Main St., Ste. 100, 502/587-8681.
• Speed Art Museum: European and Kentucky art and decorative arts. 2035 South Third St., 502/634-2700.