The Crescent City has had its knocks. But they remind us what a jewel this town is. As parts of the city continue rebuilding after Hurricane Katrina, many of its best-known neighborhoods are humming. Lighting designer and shop owner Julie Neill, designers Jane Leyens and Ann Dupuy, chef John Besh, and antiques dealer and designer Zoubir Tabout share favorites both old and new.
Livability
Three-plus years after the storm, misconceptions remain about the extent of the damage. Patty Gay of the Preservation Resource Center of New Orleans (PRC) wants to clear things up: "In the neighborhoods that developed prior to 1900, there was very little flooding," she explains, pointing out that iconic regions such as the French Quarter and Garden District were safe from the rising waters and are once again thriving. Here's a look at a few notable neighborhoods.
French Quarter
For better or worse, the French Quarter, or Vieux Carré, is often pegged as raucous and tourist-filled. But there's an entirely different side to the Quarter. "Over the past few decades," says Gay, "people have been restoring properties in the Vieux Carré, converting them back to single-family town homes. Those living here are more interested in old-world, urban living."
Fauborg Marigny
"It's what the French Quarter was like before it became touristy," says Zoubir Tabout of his bohemian neighborhood downriver from the Quarter. Says Gay: "There are so many music establishments, restaurants, coffeehouses, and shops. At night on Frenchmen Street, it feels like New York City."
Garden District
"The Garden District has a wonderful collection of older mansions," says Gay. "A lot of the architecture is a transition between Greek Revival and Italianate." Primarily built up in the mid-1800s, the area became known for its expansive gardens, as opposed to the French Quarter, where courtyards were more popular. While a few of the large properties remain intact, many side yards have been sold and built upon.
Hotels & Restaurants
There’s perhaps no other city whose essence is so closely connected to its culinary culture. The Friday lunch is notorious here, beginning around noon and ending only when supper rolls around. There are more celebrity chefs than you can shake a stick at. Even descriptions of the town have epicurean references: Its people are like a cocktail, mixing all sorts of backgrounds and ethnicities. Its architecture is like a gumbo, a little bit of this and a little bit of that. So it goes without saying that dining here is a serious affair, and you can hardly go wrong. A few musts: beignets at Café Du Monde; Friday lunch at Galatoire’s, a fine dinner at Commander’s Palace. And somewhere in between try a po’boy or muffuletta, both signature sandwiches.
There are several nice hotels within walking distance of the city’s best shops and restaurants. We’re particularly fond of The Soniat House. Its French Quarter fringe location offers convenience sans the raucous Bourbon Street nightlife, but their morning biscuits and strawberry preserves are what we truly adore.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Monteleone
This French Quarter hotel was a favorite of writers such as Hemingway and Capote and as such was designated a literary landmark.
214 Royal St., 800/535-9595, www.hotelmonteleone.com.
Loews New Orleans Hotel
Request a room with a view of the Mississippi River. 300 Poydras St., 504/636-3300, www.loewshotels.com.
The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans
“The rooms are very nice and luxurious, and the hotel has an outstanding spa,” says Julie Neill. “We love to listen to Jeremy Davenport playing his style of jazz in their restaurant, Mélange.” 921 Canal St., 504/524-1331, www.ritzcarlton.com.
Royal Sonesta Hotel
Superconvenient French Quarter location, plus a top-notch art collection. 300 Bourbon St., 504/586-0300, www.sonesta.com.
The Soniat House
“The biscuits and Ponchatoula strawberry preserves are reason enough to travel here and stay with Frances and Rodney Smith,” John Besh says of the French Quarter hotel also known for its gorgeous antiques. 1133 Chartres St., 800/544-8808, www.soniathouse.com.
Windsor Court Hotel
This Orient-Express hotel offers spacious rooms, many with private balconies, and convenient access to both the French Quarter
and arts district. 300 Gravier St., 504/523-6000, www.orient-express.com.
WHERE TO EAT
Angelo Brocato
Neill’s suggestion for desserts. “On my birthday, I always have a cannoli,” she says. “My daughter’s favorite is the chocolate éclair, and we always take home some almond meringue cookies and a quart of the unmatched lemon ice.” 214 North Carrollton Ave., 504/486-0078, www.angelobrocatoicecream.com.
August
Jane Leyens suggests this Besh restaurant as the place to go for a special occasion because of its elegant atmosphere. The
menu is contemporary French. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504/299-9777, www.restaurantaugust.com.
Bayona
Chef Susan Spicer ranks as one of the city’s best. 430 Dauphine St., 504/525-4455, www.bayona.com.
Besh Steak
“I had the best hamburger I’ve ever put in my mouth here,” says Leyens. “It’s a great spot for a meal with friends where you want to let your hair down.” George Rodrigue’s Blue Dog paintings are an extra treat. Inside Harrah’s. 8 Canal St., 504/533-6111, www.harrahsneworleans.com.
The Bombay Club
“Order something simple, have a drink, and listen to jazz,” says Zoubir Tabout. 830 Conti St., 504/586-0972, www.thebombayclub.com.
Brennan’s
Their breakfast is legendary, as is the bananas Foster. 417 Royal St., 504/525-9711, www.brennansneworleans.com.
Café Du Monde
“You have the smell of the beignets and the café au lait lingering, you hear some kids playing jazz on the sidewalk, and view Jackson Square across the street,” says Leyens. “You can only be in New Orleans.” 1039 Decatur St., 504/525-4544, www.cafedumonde.com.
Cochon
Chef Donald Link brings authentic Cajun cooking to the Crescent City. Try the house-made boudin or the oyster and bacon sandwich.
930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504/588-2123, www.cochonrestaurant.com.
Commander’s Palace
A New Orleans landmark, part of the Brennan empire, and the spot for a celebration dinner. 1403 Washington Ave., 504/899-8221,
www.commanderspalace.com.
Elizabeth’s Restaurant
“Don’t miss the praline bacon,” says Besh. 601 Gallier St., 504/944-9272, www.elizabeths-restaurant.com.
Galatoire’s Restaurant
“Always wonderful, especially on Sunday for late lunch,” says Tabout. “The best thing is the stuffed eggplant.” 209 Bourbon St., 504/525-2021, www.galatoires.com.
Herbsaint Bar and Restaurant
“Like a New York bistro, very chic with wonderful food,” says Tabout. “I love the frog they make over there.” 701 St. Charles Ave., 504/524-4114, www.herbsaint.com.
La Divina Gelateria
“Serves, by far, the best Italian ice cream and sorbet I’ve ever tasted,” says Besh. And it’s all made from scratch. 3005 Magazine St., 504/342-2634, www.ladivinagelateria.com.
Lilette
“A French café/bistro where you can have a great lunch, good appetizers, and a nice selection of wine,” says Tabout. He suggests their french fries and shrimp appetizer. 3637 Magazine St., 504/895-1636, www.liletterestaurant.com.
Napoleon House
Nicholas Girod, the city’s mayor in the early 1800s, offered up his residence to exiled Napoleon as refuge. He didn’t come, though his name remains associated with the building, now a restaurant. “A great bar for apéritifs,” says Tabout. “And they have good gumbo.” 500 Chartres St., 504/524-9752, www.napoleonhouse.com.
Oak Street Cafe
For Sunday breakfast. “They have the lightest biscuits I’ve ever eaten,” Neill says. “The thing that makes eating here so special is the live piano player who plays old standards and jazz pieces.” 8140 Oak St., 504/866-8710, www.oakstreetcafe.com.
Old Absinthe House
The Absinthe House Frappe is their signature drink, but Besh recommends swilling a Sazerac. 240 Bourbon St., 504/523-3181,
www.oldabsinthehouse.com.
Parkway Bakery & Tavern
Order a po’boy. 538 Hagan Ave., 504/482-3047, www.parkwaybakeryandtavernnola.com.
Restaurant Patois
“My favorite dishes are the almond-crusted fish and the salad with wild-flower honey vinaigrette,” Neill says. “For dessert, you have to try their homemade ice creams.” 6078 Laurel St., 504/895-9441, www.patoisnola.com.
St. James Cheese Company
“The best specialty foods store in the city,” says Besh. 5004 Prytania St., 504/899-4737, www.stjamescheese.com.
Stein’s Market and Deli
“For a proper sandwich,” Besh says. Also boasts a large selection of specialty meats and cheeses. 2207 Magazine St., 504/527-0771, www.steinsdeli.net.
Sucré
“The desserts are heavenly, the chocolates and macaroons are works of art, and the interior is more like New York than New
Orleans,” says Ann Dupuy. 3025 Magazine St., 504/520-8311, www.shopsucre.com.
Tommy’s Cuisine
“When we go gallery-hopping on the first Saturday of the month, if we wind up in the warehouse district, we love to eat here.
My favorites are the shrimp linguini and the crème brûlée,” suggests Neill. 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 504/581-1103, www.tommyscuisine.com.
Upperline
“Ken Smith is one of my favorites,” says Tabout of the Natchitoches-born chef known for his Creole dishes. “He can cook the most beautiful suppers.” 1413 Upperline St., 504/891-9822, www.upperline.com.
W.I.N.O.
“They have a state-of-the-art system where you insert a card and it will let you taste wines in ounce, half-glass, or full-glass
increments,” says Dupuy. “It’s too much fun and really gets people talking.” 610 Tchoupitoulas St., 504/324-8000, www.winoschool.com.
