Influenced by historical inlaid floors, designers Robert Brown and Todd Davis created a sophisticated pattern to complement an octagonal foyer. The floor was painted by Billet-Collins Studio.
Painting Your Floor: A Primer from the Pros
• "A properly prepared floor will yield the best results," says Kellie Hodges of the decorative-painting firm Billet-Collins Studio. She advises clients to have their floors professionally sanded or screened prior to painting.
• This is especially important if the floor is old and has a wax finish, adds decorative painter Bob Christian: "The wax has to be removed; otherwise, the paint won't adhere to the floor."
• Hodges recommends at least two coats of polyurethane once the floor is painted. Christian suggests up to five, depending on location and desired look.
• Glazes -- colorless paint extenders tinted with paint -- offer translucent color and are used to create the look of inlaid wood. Hodges uses glaze rather than opaque paint when she wants the grain of the wood to show through.
• A glossy floor is dramatic but will show scratches. A satin finish has some sheen but is more forgiving.
• Care for your painted floors as you would hardwood floors. Damp-mop with vinegar and water or a mild soap solution.
• If you plan to paint a high-traffic area, such as a staircase, make sure you're comfortable with a certain degree of patina, Christian advises. Find pictures of the floors in similar locations to see how they might look after some wear and tear.
• As durable as painted floors are, Hodges still advises clients to put felt pads under chair legs and other furniture.
Picking a Pattern: Trade Tricks
• Use kraft paper to work out the best pattern and scale for your floor. Designer Stiles Colwill says he might try three or four different sizes before a decision is made.
• "Go larger than you think you need to," advises designer Richard Keith Langham. "A larger scale helps the breadth of a room."
• Let a professional do the math. "Before we paint, we determine precisely how the pattern will lay out, taking doorways and other architectural conditions into consideration," says Hodges. "Most designs require some 'finessing' to look perfect."
• If you opt for faux marble, be sure the veining is subtle, says Colwill. "There should be just enough to create depth."
• "A painted border, be it a Greek key or interlocking circles, is a timeless way of defining the perimeter of a room," says Langham.
• Hodges suggests that if a room has a lot of doorways, the border should be 2 to 12 inches from the wall, depending on how it looks to your eye. Otherwise, a painted design can abut the wall.
• Decorative painter Bob Christian says he often paints a band, even if it is not decorative, around a room for a finished, framed effect. He generally paints a solid color across thresholds, unless there is a raised saddle.
And Keep In Mind...
• You don't need special deck paint. Regular latex paint will do, but you must thoroughly work it into the wood to achieve rich color.
• When using pattern, keep the scale of adjoining rooms in mind. A check that suits the size of a bedroom may prove to be too large in a dressing room.
• Explore a range of color possibilities. Black floors are always chic.
• Consider stenciling a pattern. Use a contrasting stain to create the design on the floor.
RESOURCES: Kellie Hodges, Billet-Collins Studio, 301/670-5550, www.billetcollins.com; Bob Christian, 912/234-1960, www.bobchristiandecorativeart.com; Richard Keith Langham, 212/759-1212; Todd Davis and Robert Brown, Brown Davis Interiors, Inc., 305/401-7565, www.browndavis.com; Stiles Colwill, Stiles T. Colwill Interiors, 410/828-7805.
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