A Passion for Passementerie

"Choosing trim for a piece of furniture is like a woman dressing in a beautiful outfit and making sure she has the right jewelry," says Roxene Hill, whose Middleburg, Virginia, shop specializes in fabrics and decorative trims. "Trim can make or break any decorating project."

Historically, the market for decorative trims, or passementerie, dropped off as the Victorian era, with its opulent taste, drew to a close. But their popularity has since returned, and even the most severely edited interior is likely to have beautifully executed trims. Trims in contrasting colors can help "draw attention to perimeters," says Washington, D.C., designer Mary Drysdale. "They accentuate the design elements of a room."

Trims were originally used to decorate wall hangings, equestrian gear, or clothing, but the introduction of upholstery in the 17th century presented a new use: to cover nail heads and uneven seams. They were ideal for camouflaging mistakes, which were surprisingly numerous as upholsterers gradually mastered their new craft. Today, trims are found not only in the seams of seating, but also on window treatments, tablecloths, bedding, lampshades, and even area rugs.

Although select design firms still produce handmade silk trim, employing many of the same methods used in the 18th century, their wares no longer cost more than the furniture they embellish. But whether they are silk or synthetic, trims always connote luxury -- the string of pearls when a rope of beads would do. "Trims are usually not a necessity, but they add a layer of interest that gives depth to a room," explains decorator Betsy Barmat Stires of Great Falls, Virginia. In one project, Stires used an exquisite chandelier with natural turquoise stones and accented the sofa cushions with bright turquoise fringe.

Layering trims -- two different tassel fringes or fringe topped with braids and cords -- produces an exceptional effect on furniture. Some designers reserve expensive trims for pillows or small pieces where a few yards can have a huge impact. Washington, D.C., designer David Mitchell uses dressmaker trims in his designs. He applies embroidered or grosgrain ribbons as borders and sews sequins along the edges of cashmere throws.

While trims are most often used to create a clean, tailored edge, they are sometimes counted on to blur boundaries. New Orleans decorator Ann Dupuy prefers to place raffia-brush fringe on the leading edge of linen window sheers. "It gives a deconstructed look. I want it to look like someone started to pull at the seams and it just started to unravel," she says. Stires puts it another way: "When it comes to trim, sometimes I'm trying to smooth the surface; sometimes I'm trying to ruffle it."

Although most trims are based on 17th-, 18th-, and 19th-century designs, innovative ideas continue to appear, such as chenille loop fringe; crinkled silk ribbon fringe; crystal, plastic, and Murano-glass beads; and shells threaded on fringe. One manufacturer makes acrylic cord and fringe for outdoor use.

So enjoy a brush with history, or make history yourself with something original and unexpected. With trims, anything goes.

KNOW YOUR TRIMS

• Gimp, the narrowest of the flat trims, traditionally is used to cover upholstery tacks. It can also embellish raised designs and may have a decorative cord or be woven into a pattern. Shell gimp has a scalloped edge that allows it to follow the curves of the furniture.

• Braid, tape, and galloon are simply wider versions of gimp and can either be woven flat or done in raised openwork. They are often used to edge draperies, valances, cornices, bed linens, and the skirts of upholstered furniture.

• Piping or welting consists of a cord covered with fabric that is cut on the bias to add flexibility. It could also be covered with braid. Piping or welting is often sewn into the seams of cushions or pillows and used to cover upholstery tacks.

• Cord consists of plied yarns twisted together into a rope. The edge of a plain tape may be sewn to the cord so it can be inserted into the seams of upholstery in place of piping. Cords often edge wall upholstery, draperies, and valances or serve as festoons over swags.

• Borders are flat-weave trims similar to gimp and braid but are wider, measuring up to 6 inches.

• Fringe has a decorative heading, with hanging threads, cords, or tassels. The threads can be cut, looped, or twisted, as in a bullion, or they may support beads, tassels, or even shells. Fringe is inserted in the seams of cushions and pillows or hung from the edges of draperies, lampshades, window shades, table skirts, lambrequins, cornices, swags, and jabots.

RESOURCES: Roxene Hill, Haute, 540/687-4646, www.hautefabric.com. Mary Drysdale, Drysdale Inc., 202/588-0700. Betsy Barmat Stires, Bedheader's Home, 703/757-0240, www.bedheaders.com. David Mitchell, David H. Mitchell Interior Design, 202/797-0780, www.davidmitchellinteriordesign.com. Ann Dupuy, Holden & Dupuy Interior Design, 504/568-1101.