by Julie Cole
Photos by Monica Buck
French Linens
Prized for their beauty and strength, these Old World textiles lend cachet and distinction to tables and beds
We're so used to referring to sheets, tablecloths, and napkins as linens that we often forget the term is specific to a fiber -- that of the hardy flax plant. Today, our domestic fabrics are typically woven of cotton, but historically, linen yarn was more common due to its resilience and absorbency.

European linens, particularly those of France, Belgium, and Ireland, have always been cherished. Their beauty and quality can be hard to duplicate with contemporary equivalents.

Perhaps it's the notion of the bridal trousseau that infuses antique textiles with romance. Fresh new fabrics gathered together in anticipation of a marriage bring the hopes of generations to the table.

Grandmothers were often charged with monogramming napkins and tablecloths for the young women in the family, weaving both femininity and practicality into the domestic necessities that would outfit their futures.

These treasured linens would customarily be passed down through the generations, sometimes acquiring new initials along the way.

Romance aside, "linen was really the workhorse textile," says Linda Baumgarten, curator of textiles and costumes at Colonial Williamsburg. "It was often used for underwear, sheets, and workers' clothing. It did come in different degrees of quality, however, and finer grades were available for the wealthier people."

Regardless of quality, every inch of fabric was valued. "Even the nicer ones have quarter-inch hems," says Baumgarten. "And on linen damask, you'll see that the selvages were used to make the most of the fabric."

Linen threads are spun from the cellulose of the stalk, which conducts water, explaining why the resulting cloth is so highly absorbent. Once the flax is harvested, it is soaked and beaten to separate the woody bark from the interior fibers, which are combed and spun into thread.

This process was mastered by the Huguenots. When they fled France in the 17th century to escape religious persecution, the French Protestants' talent for weaving was disseminated throughout Europe.

Bryce Reveley, who specializes in antique textiles at Gentle Arts in New Orleans, says that if the antique fabrics you're drawn to have made it this far and are still in good condition, they will last for years to come. "Linen that was loomed in France at that time was made from the best flax in the world," says Reveley. "Unfortunately, flax no longer grows as tall today because of pollution, so the thread can't be as finely spun."


COMING CLEAN
Don't be afraid to use your linens. "They aren't difficult to take care of," says textiles specialist Bryce Reveley. "Just don't use bleach. Instead, wash them on the gentle cycle with soap flakes. Avoid the dryer."
Reveley also suggests air-drying laundered napkins by spreading them on a counter or smooth surface and pressing them flat. Place kitchen glasses on the four corners to keep them in place. "The smoother you get them with your hands, the less likely you are to have to iron them. If ironing is necessary, use a low setting and no steam."
For storing large pieces, such as sheets or tablecloths, Gay Wirth of Wirthmore Antiques in New Orleans suggests a time-worn method: folding them in half numerous times and hanging them in a dry place.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Condition your eye. Check hems for frays. Open the cloth and hold it up to the light, noting repairs. If evaluating a set, examine each piece. The closer you get to the bottom of the stack, Reveley says, the more likely you are to find stains.
Get the red out. If an item was stained before you purchased it, the stain probably won't come out. But if a guest spills red wine on your antique linen tomorrow, don't throw in the towel -- literally. Pat the stain with lemon and salt, or soak the cloth for a few days in a bucket of water with mild soap, suggests Wirth. Rinse gently without wringing, pressing to expel the water. Lay the cloth over a bush or grass and let the sun's rays naturally bleach it. Repeat the process as necessary.
Know what you're buying. Sets sell for more than single items. A set of 24 napkins can go for $650. Add a matching tablecloth and the price can leap to $1,500. A torchon, the drying towel used for glassware and dishes, can fetch around $28. Bear in mind that antique napkins were larger to accommodate the full skirts of the 1800s. Similarly, antique sheets, which sell for $50 to $1,200, don't necessarily fit today's beds.


RESOURCES: All linens from Wirthmore Antiques (R), 3727 Magazine St., New Orleans, LA 70115, 504/269-0660.
 
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