| by Julie Cole Photos by Monica Buck |
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| French Linens | ||||||||
| Prized for their beauty and strength, these Old World textiles lend cachet and distinction to tables and beds | ||||||||
| We're so used to referring to sheets, tablecloths, and napkins as linens that
we often forget the term is specific to a fiber -- that of the hardy flax plant.
Today, our domestic fabrics are typically woven of cotton, but historically,
linen yarn was more common due to its resilience and absorbency.
European linens, particularly those of France, Belgium, and Ireland, have always been cherished. Their beauty and quality can be hard to duplicate with contemporary equivalents. Perhaps it's the notion of the bridal trousseau that infuses antique textiles with romance. Fresh new fabrics gathered together in anticipation of a marriage bring the hopes of generations to the table. Grandmothers were often charged with monogramming napkins and tablecloths for the young women in the family, weaving both femininity and practicality into the domestic necessities that would outfit their futures. These treasured linens would customarily be passed down through the generations, sometimes acquiring new initials along the way. Romance aside, "linen was really the workhorse textile," says Linda Baumgarten, curator of textiles and costumes at Colonial Williamsburg. "It was often used for underwear, sheets, and workers' clothing. It did come in different degrees of quality, however, and finer grades were available for the wealthier people." Regardless of quality, every inch of fabric was valued. "Even the nicer ones have quarter-inch hems," says Baumgarten. "And on linen damask, you'll see that the selvages were used to make the most of the fabric." Linen threads are spun from the cellulose of the stalk, which conducts water, explaining why the resulting cloth is so highly absorbent. Once the flax is harvested, it is soaked and beaten to separate the woody bark from the interior fibers, which are combed and spun into thread.This process was mastered by the Huguenots. When they fled France in the 17th century to escape religious persecution, the French Protestants' talent for weaving was disseminated throughout Europe. Bryce Reveley, who specializes in antique textiles at Gentle Arts in New Orleans, says that if the antique fabrics you're drawn to have made it this far and are still in good condition, they will last for years to come. "Linen that was loomed in France at that time was made from the best flax in the world," says Reveley. "Unfortunately, flax no longer grows as tall today because of pollution, so the thread can't be as finely spun."
RESOURCES: All linens from Wirthmore Antiques (R), 3727 Magazine St., New Orleans, LA 70115, 504/269-0660. |
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