| Think you know Houston? You might be surprised. Its image as an energy, medical, and financial hub belies a city with a thriving arts community; charming, tree-filled neighborhoods; and sophisticated shopping and dining. A few of our favorite Houstonians—designer Randy Powers, jewelry designer Joanie Herring, developer Carol Isaak Barden, and philanthropist Becca Cason Thrash—share the flip side of America’s fourth-largest city
Lifestyle
Although the bayou city has earned a reputation as a sprawling megalopolis with a patchwork layout often viewed as chaotic rather than quirky, the bad rap unfairly overshadows the city’s strong suits: well-planned, in-town neighborhoods; a downtown historic sector undergoing a transformation; and a No. 1 ranking among U.S. cities in total acres of parkland. “Those who are fortunate enough to live in the center of Houston find that it’s like a small town with big-city amenities,” says architectural historian Stephen Fox. “Things are very close together. You don’t have to get on the freeway, you can walk in parts of the city, and you can use the metro light-rail line as an alternative to a car.” Here’s a roundup of a few notable Houston neighborhoods. River Oaks
Two miles west of Downtown, River Oaks is Houston’s most desirable neighborhood, “where houses are bought and sold without signs,” says Carol Isaak Barden. It’s home to lawyers, CEOs, athletes, and some of the city’s best parties. “River Oaks was developed between the mid-’20s and late ’40s by a remarkable Houston family,” says Fox. “Will Hogg developed River Oaks in his effort to establish a sort of model of modern community planning, which the rest of Houston could follow.” Though they didn’t. The ambitious 1,100-acre community designated space for shopping areas, parks, and schools. Restrictive covenants enforced by the property owners association ensure the integrity of the neighborhood. A mélange of styles, from English Tudor to Georgian to Spanish Revival, can be found here on large, treed lots facing gently curving streets that lend a feeling of spaciousness. “Because much of River Oaks was built in the ’20s and ’30s, it contains a wonderful collection of important houses from those decades,” Fox says. “Unfortunately, some of them are being demolished. At the same time, other people are spending extraordinary sums of money on rehabilitating some of the most architecturally notable houses and in some cases building distinguished new houses in the neighborhood.” www.ropo.org. Downtown
As in many large cities, in-town loft living has become increasingly popular. “The transformation of the historic sector of downtown into a residential neighborhood was a trend that began in the mid-’90s and came to fruition in the early 21st century,” says Fox, adding that the process is ongoing. The makeover began with a few individual investors buying and remodeling a building, and then commercial developers got involved. “That has led to the preservation and rehabilitation of many of the most architecturally significant early 20th-century commercial buildings,” says Fox. Today, former offices such as the Southern Pacific and Commerce buildings now house rental lofts, condominiums, and, in some cases, hotels. The luxe Hotel Icon is in the former Union National Bank building. Young professionals and empty nesters alike are drawn to Downtown’s live/work/play lifestyle. The theater district and Minute Maid Park are nearby, and the light-rail line means an easy commute to the city’s top museums and medical center. www.houstondowntown.com.
Museum District and West University Place
According to Fox, some of the city’s most attractive residential areas are adjacent to the Museum District, one of the most picturesque being Broadacres, which is within walking distance of the Museum of Fine Arts. “It is fairly small, just two parallel streets: North and South boulevards,” he says. “They were planned in the early ’20s by architect William Ward Watkin. He planted those two streets in what was intended as an upper income residential neighborhood, with live oaks six across, four of those rows being in a wide central esplanade.” The small neighborhood (only about 40 acres) remains elite, though the parklike esplanades are enjoyed by everyone. Nearby neighborhoods, such as West University Place, are also popular because of access to shopping, dining, and Rice University. Young professionals are attracted to West U because it’s an incorporated city in the center of Houston with its own fire and police departments. “It was traditionally a middle to lower-middle income neighborhood,” says Fox. “Very respectable but not at all fashionable.” That’s changing now as real estate prices rise and small bungalows built between 1920 and 1950 are remodeled or torn down, with larger and more expensive homes being built in their place. www.houstonmuseumdistrict.org, www.westu.org. Hotels & Restaurants
Quintessential Texas fare is unequivocally barbecue and Tex-Mex, and Houston dishes up great examples of each. Goode Company Barbecue is considered the best. The parking lot of its Kirby Drive restaurant is often packed with both dusty pickups and slick luxury cars. Bring up who serves the best margaritas in town, and a lively debate is sure to ensue.
The city also has a great balance of upscale dining and friendly neighborhood spots. And there are plenty of restaurants that speak to the area’s international population. As for accommodations, book a room downtown -- you’ll be close to the theater district and can easily take the light-rail to the museum district—or in the River Oaks and uptown areas, near the city’s best shopping.
| WHERE TO STAY |
Four Seasons Hotel Houston
A downtown mainstay for 25 years. When Houston temps soar, take advantage of the recently revamped rooftop pool. 1300 Lamar St., 713/650-1300, www.fourseasons.com. Hotel Derek
Stylish and sleek interiors and a great restaurant, Bistro Moderne. “A lot of people like Hotel Derek because it’s so convenient to The Galleria,” suggests Powers. 2525 West Loop S, 713/961-3000, www.hotelderek.com. Hotel Icon
“It’s located in an old brownstone building, and every room is different,” says Herring. 22 Main St., 713/224-4266, www.hotelicon.com. Houstonian Hotel
“Very ‘Houston cozy,’ ” says Herring. “And the spa is great.” 111 North Post Oak Ln., 713/680-2626, www.houstonian.com. St. Regis, Houston
“I don’t like the jostle of hip or quirky hotels,” says Barden. “My visiting friends agree and choose the stately St. Regis located in a wooded park about a mile from The Galleria. Include the traditional afternoon tea, with butler and harpist, in your stay.” 1919 Briar Oaks Ln., 713/840-7600, www.stregis.com/houston. |
| WHERE TO EAT |
Armandos
Suggests Thrash: “Order the Patrón Silver margaritas and the queso flameado. It’s so good that you could bathe in it.” 2630 Westheimer Rd., 713/520-1738, www.armandoshouston.com. Avalon Diner
“Fun for kids,” says Herring. “Great omelets and burgers.” 2417 Westheimer Rd., 713/527-8900, www.avalondiner.com. Brennan’s of Houston
The highly regarded New Orleans restaurant family brings Texas Creole to Houston. 3300 Smith St., 713/522-9711, www.brennanshouston.com. Cafe Annie
“I like to eat at the bar of Cafe Annie,” says Powers. “The thing I order the most is a salad of tuna and beets. I crave it. They also have the most amazing french fries coated in Parmesan cheese, and their lamb chops are unbelievable.” 1728 Post Oak Blvd., 713/840-1111, www.cafe-annie.com. Catalan Food & Wine
Spanish-influenced menu. “Order the foie gras bon bons,” suggests Herring. 5555 Washington Ave., 713/426-4260, www.catalanfoodandwine.com. Da Marco
“The best Italian restaurant. Period,” says Thrash. “If it weren’t on Westheimer, it would be on the Via Del Corso in Rome.” 1520 Westheimer Rd., 713/807-8857, www.damarcohouston.com. Frenchy’s Chicken
“An aesthetic movement,” says Powers. This fast-food joint isn’t necessarily known for fall-all-over-you service, but with chicken (and fries and red beans and rice) so good, who cares? 3919 Scott St., 713/748-2233. For other locations, visit www.frenchyschicken.com. Goode Company Barbecue
The barbecue may be famous, says Powers, but it’s the pecan pie that makes it trip-worthy. 5109 Kirby Dr., 713/522-2530. For other locations, visit www.goodecompany.com. Gravitas Restaurant
“Jason Gould turns out a consistent but creative menu,” says Thrash, describing the place as having a New York vibe. “Get the trout amandine.” 807 Taft St., 713/522-0995, www.gravitasrestaurant.com. The Grove
Launched by chef Robert Del Grande (of Cafe Annie fame), this new restaurant sited downtown in a grove of oaks serves an American rustic menu. The terrace offers great views of the Houston skyline. 1611 Lamar St., 713/337-7321. Hugo’s
“Great Mexican with the best quesadillas,” says Herring. 1600 Westheimer Rd., 713/524-7744, www.hugosrestaurant.net.
Mark’s American Cuisine
“Mark Cox manages to dazzle a full house most every night with food that’s inventive but never too fussy,” says Barden. “The restaurant is located in a renovated 1920s church with gold ceilings.” 1658 Westheimer Rd., 713/523-3800, www.marks1658.com. Monarch Restaurant & Lounge
In the over-the-top Hotel Zaza. For the best restaurant view in Houston, Thrash suggests reserving the table in front of the Mecom Fountains. 5701 Main St., 713/526-1991, www.hotelzaza.com/houston. Ninfa’s on Navigation
Herring recommends the margaritas and nachos. 2704 Navigation Blvd., 713/228-1175, www.mamaninfas.com. Onion Creek
Casual, neighborhood joint in the Heights community serving salads, sandwiches, and burgers. On Saturdays, a farmers market is held behind the café. 3106 White Oak Blvd., 713/880-0706, www.onioncreekcafe.com. Paulie’s
“For a neighborhood feel, go to Paulie’s,” says Powers. “They are famous for their shortbread cookies.” The salads and panini are tops too. 1834 Westheimer Rd., 713/807-7271, www.pauliescookies.com. Shade
“I order the Shade Caesar salad with chicken,” says Herring. Chef Jeb Stuart tops it with fried capers, grape tomatoes, hearts of palm, and garlic croutons. 250 West 19th St., 713/863-7500, www.shadeheights.com. Sugarbaby’s Cupcake Boutique
Va-Va-Vanilla, Velvet Rouge, Black Forest, Chocolate Covered Strawberry—skip your main meal and have your just desserts. 3310 South Shepherd, 713/527-8427, www.ilovesugarbabys.com. T’afia
Chef Monica Pope, a 2007 James Beard Award nominee, is a champion of local farmers and producers. Make reservations for Friday’s prix fixe lunch. 3701 Travis St., 713/524-6922, www.tafia.com. Tiny Boxwood’s
Thompson + Hanson’s charming new café boasts lovely environs and great espresso. 3614 West Alabama St., 713/622-4224, www.thompsonhanson.com. Tony’s
Powers describes it as a “see and be seen” kind of place where the service is top-notch and French and Italian flavors are combined. 3755 Richmond Ave., 713/622-6778, www.tonyshouston.com. Voice Restaurant and Lounge
A preview tasting prior to its grand opening left Barden raving about executive chef Michael Kramer’s new “Houston-centric” venture in Hotel Icon. 220 Main St., 713/224-4266, www.hotelicon.com. |
Shopping
Without a doubt, Houston’s best-known shopping is found at The Galleria. This megamall has nearly 400 shops and restaurants --including Neiman Marcus, Versace, and Ralph Lauren -- and boasts a year-round ice-skating rink. Missoni and Tory Burch plan to open stores there this summer.
But the city offers much, much more in terms of shopping and has a wealth of interiors and antiques retailers that are frequented by in-the-know locals. No matter what your taste, an absolute must on the list is the one-of-a-kind Kuhl-Linscomb. Owners Dan Linscomb and Pam Kuhl-Linscomb call it a “lifestyle store with the best of the best in every category.” And they do mean every category, from cosmetics to furniture.
| WHERE TO SHOP |
À Bientôt
“This hip shop has great costume jewelry,” says Herring. “And I love mixing costume with the real stuff.” 3268 Westheimer Rd., 713/523-3997, www.shopabientot.com. Alexandra Knight
“She designs and sells great alligator bags,” says Thrash. By appointment only. 2440 South Blvd, Ste. 104; 713/527-8848. For other locations, visit www.alexandraknightonline.com. Area
“You walk in and always find something,” says Herring. “Cool vases, great antiques. Modern but with a mix of old too.” 5600 Kirby Dr., 713/668-1668. Brian Stringer Antiques
“The shop’s atmosphere is truly intoxicating. Brian should get a medal in furniture procurement,” says Powers. “His wicked sense of humor is a bonus.” 2031 West Alabama St., 713/526-7380, www.brianstringerantiques.com. Brown
Lamps designed by owner Jill Brown, chandeliers, antique lighting, and antiques.
“Brown lived in Europe for years and continues to bring back some of the best lighting in the city,” says Barden. 2940 Ferndale St., 713/522-2151, www.theshopbybrown.com. Carl Moore Antiques
You’ll find a vast collection of English, Continental, and Chinese antiques at this shop, a fixture in Houston for more than 20 years. 1610 Bissonnet St., 713/524-2502, www.carlmooreantiques.com. Carol Piper Rugs
This respected dealer of antique and new carpets just launched a line of original designs. 1809 West Gray St., 713/524-2442, www.carolpiperrugs.com. David Brown Flowers
“Not just a florist,” says Powers, who recommends the store’s interesting vases, containers, and things for the home. 1180 Uptown Park Blvd., 713/664-0466. Found for the Home
“This showroom—a loftlike space that was once a staple manufacturing plant—is filled with wonderful, crusty treasures,” says Barden. “There are chandeliers, vintage floor lamps, 18th-century antiques, and garden pieces.” 2422 Bartlett St., Ste. 5; 713/522-9191; www.foundforthehome.com. Hamilton
Houston’s oldest family-owned business. Their quality, stylish shirts are still cut and sewn by hand. 5700 Richmond Ave., 713/264-8800, www.hamiltonshirts.com. Indulge Linens Décor
Soaps, linens, perfume, and jewelry, including some of Herring’s designs. “It’s an experience just walking in. It feels like you’re in Paris,” says Herring. 2501 River Oaks Blvd., 713/521-7107, www.indulgelinens.com. Its sister shop is Indulge Maison Décor. 2903 Saint St., 713/888-0181, www.indulgedecor.com. Jas A. Gundry, Inc.
A trove of Georgian, Oriental, and Continental antiques. “Jas Gundry has more than 35 years in the business and has worked with many museums and famous interior decorators,” says Barden. 2910 Ferndale Pl., 713/524-6622, www.jasgundry.com. Kay O’Toole Antiques & Eccentricities
“The shop is much like the woman herself: light, airy, and wonderfully eccentric,” says Powers. “You truly feel that you are somewhere between France and Italy, but you do not find the typical ‘Frenchy’ kind of pedestrian antiques. Kay buys with her soul, and it shows.” 1921 Westheimer Rd., 713/523-1921, www.kayotooleantiques.com. Kuhl-Linscomb
“An upscale home décor and lifestyle store spread out over five buildings. Shoppers can find everything for a stylish home: beautiful bed linens, gift items, tabletop, books, and brands such as Armani Casa, Kartell, Herman Miller, Artemide, and Bulthaup. It’s a mecca, a larger-than-life store that’s a visual feast,” says Barden. 2424 West Alabama St., 713/526-6000, www.kuhl-linscomb.com. Longoria Collection
“The Longoria Collection in Uptown Park has a Zen-like atmosphere,” says Thrash. “Their gifts are elegant and tasteful.” 1101-02 Uptown Park Blvd., 713/621-4241, www.longoriacollection.com. Maida’s
Custom boots and other leather goods since 1901. 3740 Westheimer Rd., 713/961-4538, www.maidas.com. McClain Gallery
“For me, art must be both fine and functional,” Thrash says. “McClain Gallery is our personal favorite. Robert and Cynthia McClain have had countless important shows this past year, including Julian Schnabel, Louise Nevelson, and Cy Twombly works on paper, to name only a few.” 2242 Richmond Ave., 713/520-9988, www.mcclaingallery.com. Meredith Long & Company
“My favorite gallery,” says Herring. “It has a great mix. You might find a Winslow Homer next to an up-and-coming artist.” 2323 San Felipe St., 713/523-6671, www.meredithlonggallery.com. Moody Gallery
“With an emphasis on Texas artists, the gallery is cutting-edge but classic,” says Powers. “At the same time, it has very friendly price points.” 2815 Colquitt St., 713/526-9911, www.moodygallery.com. Neiman Marcus
Sure, the Dallas store is the icon, and you may have one in your city, but Neiman Marcus is still a must-shop. “Kent in the shoe department has been there since I was a kid,” says Powers, “and he can make anything happen.” The Galleria, 2600 Post Oak Blvd., 713/621-7100, www.neimanmarcus.com. Parkerson Gallery
With a focus on American and European 19th- and 20th-century art, owner Sandy Parkerson deals in the secondary market, including many works from Houston estates. 3510 Lake St., 713/524-4945. PH Design Shop
“I spend $500 a month here,” confesses Powers. “The owners have such fantastic taste. I’m always getting custom Post-it notes or calling cards for clients. Go there to do things outside of the box.” 3306 South Shepherd Dr., 713/522-8861, www.phdesignshop.com. Phyllis Tucker Antiques
“Antique sterling silver flatware and hollowware,” says Barden. “The city’s finest caterer, Jackson Hicks, can be found there frequently, snapping up all the most important pieces.” 2919 Ferndale Pl., 713/524-0165, www.phyllistucker.com. Pixie and Ivy
“A small clothing shop with a great eye,” says Herring. 1848 Westheimer Rd., 713/630-6500, www.pixieandivy.com. River Oaks Bookstore
This cozy bookstore is known for its coffee table books and the latest fiction and nonfiction. “They always have a plate of cookies on the coffee table,” says Powers. 3270 Westheimer Rd., 713/520-0061. Shabby Slips Houston
Chic custom upholstery, antiques, and handcrafted reproductions. 2304 Bissonnet St., 713/630-0066, www.shabbyslipshouston.com. Sloan/Hall
Powers suggests this hip, funky card store that also carries jewelry, frames, and accessories. 2620 Westheimer Rd., 713/942-0202, www.sloanhall.com. Tara Shaw
The to-the-trade warehouse sales of this antiques dealer are famous. 1845-A West Alabama St., 713/533-9744, www.tarashaw.com. Thompson + Hanson
“It’s a nursery and garden shop,” says Powers. “Kathy Frietsch, the buyer, has amazing taste. I’m in there at least twice a week, whether I’m buying a coffee table book or potting soil.” 3600 West Alabama St., 713/622-6973, www.thompsonhanson.com. Toni Whitaker
“Toni designs everything from black silk taffeta evening skirts to beaded wedding gowns,” says Barden, who admits to coveting a Whitaker-designed, ladylike gray suit that resembled something Grace Kelly would have worn. 2422 Bartlett St., Studio 7, 713/522-1406, www.toniwhitaker.com. Tootsies
Thrash ranks this luxe women’s fashion store as one of her favorites. Find designs by the likes of Etro, Christian Lacroix, Roberto Cavalli, and more. Highland Village Shopping Center, 4045 Westheimer Rd., 713/629-9990, www.tootsies.com. Twenty Six Twenty
“Hands down the best co-op for high style and great design,” says Powers. “These ladies are design-obsessed, and it shows. Constantly changing and always fresh-feeling, it is almost a one-stop shop.” 2620 Joanel St., 713/840-9877. W. Gardner, Ltd.
“His shop, housed in a handsome home with a pool, brims with antiques from around the world,” says Barden. 2930 Ferndale St., 713/521-1027, www.wgardnerltd.com. |
Arts, Culture, & Sightseeing
To truly take advantage of the Houston arts scene, set aside more than an afternoon. There are 18 museums concentrated in the city’s museum district, near Rice University. One of our favorites is The Menil Collection, designed by architect Renzo Piano and home to the private collection of John and Dominique de Menil.
Houston also has a tremendous performing arts scene, with resident companies in the disciplines of opera, ballet, music, and theater. Despite being the state’s largest city, there are green spaces for those who long to get outdoors. Take a canoe trip down Buffalo Bayou for a decidedly different view of Houston.
| WHAT TO DO |
Art Car Parade
Cars are turned into works of art to benefit the Orange Show Center for Visionary Art. In the past, one car was decorated with Barbie dolls, and another looked like an armadillo. Allen Parkway, May 10. For information, visit www.orangeshow.org/artcar.html. Bayou Bend Collection and Gardens
The former River Oaks home of Houston notable Ima Hogg houses the American decorative arts collection for The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston. 1 Westcott St., 713/639-7750, www.mfah.org/bayoubend. Bayou City Farmers Market
“Vendors sell everything from coffee, herbs, honey, and baked goods to vegetables, eggs, fruits, candles, and even home-baked treats for dogs,” says Barden. “Don’t leave without the Fresh Orange & Serrano Marmalade and the Fudgy Pudgy Pie.” 3000 Richmond Ave., 713/880-5540, www.urbanharvest.org. Buffalo Bayou Park
“The bayou snakes throughout the entire city,” says Thrash. “It is synonymous with Houston.” Go canoeing or kayaking, or experience the adjacent hiking and biking trails. Between Allen Parkway and Memorial Drive, 713/752-0314, www.buffalobayou.org. Byzantine Fresco Chapel Museum
“My single favorite building in Houston,” says Barden. “François de Menil designed the award-winning Byzantine Chapel Museum, transposing the ancient relics to a contemporary site and restoring spiritual significance to the frescoes.” 4011 Yupon, 713/521-3990, www.menil.org/byzantine.html. Contemporary Arts Museum, Houston
“While the CAMH does not have a permanent collection, it brings Houston extraordinary shows and installations of the most cutting-edge art,” says Thrash. 5216 Montrose Blvd., 713/284-8250, www.camh.org. Holocaust Museum Houston
Among the highlights is a permanent exhibition that shares the experiences of Holocaust survivors living in the Houston area. 5401 Caroline St., 713/942-8000, www.hmh.org. Houston Ballet
Considered one of the country’s top ballet companies. Upcoming performances include Three Classics, Five Tangos and La Sylphide/A Doll’s House. Wortham Theater Center, 501 Texas Ave., 713/227-2787, www.houstonballet.org. Houston Grand Opera
“The Houston Grand Opera is internationally known for excellence and innovation on stage,” says Barden. “The New York Times calls it the ‘jewel in the cultural crown.’ It’s a daring company that has premiered many imaginative works.” Wortham Theater Center, 501 Texas Ave., 713/228-6737, www.houstongrandopera.org. Memorial Park
Nearly twice the size of New York’s Central Park. Powers says: “Memorial Park is in the heart of the city; it’s where you find people out running and playing with their dogs.” 713/863-8403, www.memorialparkconservancy.org. The Menil Collection
“Outstanding,” says Powers of the Renzo Piano–designed museum. Don’t miss the Cy Twombly Gallery. “I nearly fainted the first time I went, and now I go at least twice a month just to take it all in again,” says Powers. 1511 Sul Ross, 713/525-9400, www.menil.org. Midtown Farmers Market
“Chef Monica Pope of T’afia spearheads this great farmers market every weekend,” says Powers. 3701 Travis St., 713/524-6922, www.tafia.com/mfm.html. The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston
Featuring strong collections of decorative arts, French Impressionist works, and post-1945 European and American paintings and sculpture, the museum also has more than 30 changing exhibitions each year. 1001 Bissonnet St., 713/639-7300, www.mfah.org. The Rothko Chapel
Described as “a place where religion, art, and architecture intermingle,” the chapel, celebrating all beliefs, was founded by John and Dominique de Menil. Artist Mark Rothko created 14 paintings for the space. 1409 Sul Ross, 713/524-9839, www.rothkochapel.org. Smooth Skin Bar
“The best place for facials,” says Herring. “Lead aesthetician Linda Robles uses the latest skin products.” 2932 Ferndale St., 713/520-0150, www.smoothskinbar.com. Space Center Houston
Explore the epicenter of our country’s space program, home of Mission Control and the training base for U.S. astronauts. 1601 NASA Pkwy., 281/244-2100, www.spacecenter.org. St. Martin’s Episcopal Church
“This Gothic church cost $47 million to build,” says Barden. “There are free tours every Sunday afternoon. Before visiting, check to see if there are any organ and choral concerts on the church calendar.” 717 Sage Rd., 713/621-3040, www.stmartinsepiscopal.org. Trellis: The Spa at The Houstonian
The place for pampering. “Get a massage from Walter,” says Thrash. 111 North Post Oak Ln., 713/685-6790, www.trellisspa.com. |
RESOURCES: Randy Powers, J Randall Powers Interior Decoration, 713/524-5100; Joanie Herring, Joan Jacomini Herring Designs, 713/862-8146; Carol Isaak Barden, Carol Isaak Barden + Company, 713/520-5145, www.carolisaakbarden.com. |
