The love of citrus spread to the New World, especially in French-influenced Louisiana. "It's our custom to use a citrus tree as a Christmas tree because until the 20th century, we didn't have scented pine trees here," says citrus lover Patrick Dunne, owner of the antiques shops Lucullus in New Orleans and Breaux Bridge, Louisiana. He decorates his sparingly: lightweight tin candleholders, elegant silver ornaments, and, of course, the fruit itself, which functions as natural ornaments. "I like the simpler approach to Christmas," he says. "The modern eye craves the relaxation; it is so overwhelmed by artificiality that it loves to rest on totally natural things." When the holiday season is over and the weather warms, he plants the tree.

For residents of year-round warm spots, there's really no need to bring citrus inside, except to enjoy it after it's picked. "I am mad for citrus," says designer Suzanne Rheinstein, who grows many different kinds around her swimming pool in Los Angeles: satsumas, kumquats, limes, Meyer lemons, calamondins. "I don't need to bring in the plants in the winter, but I use the fruit a lot in my house."

You'd be hard-pressed to visit Rheinstein's house and not see at least a few piles of limes or kumquats on mantels or tables. "I do it like they did in the 18th century in those wonderful Italian paintings," she explains. "I often load miniature Versailles boxes with satsumas when they're still green, and then put them on the mantel. Or I'll do a big bowl of kumquats." Rheinstein likes to use just one kind of citrus in each vessel, and sometimes erects a citrus pyramid for a clean, structured look. "I don't think there's anything fresher than citrus. I like it better than flowers," she says. "The style is unpretentious and relaxed."

Before getting your own indoor citrus tree, you'll need to know a few important details. First, opt for a dwarf type (see Best Bets section, next page of this story); the plant stays small, but the fruit is normal size. Place your plant in a clay pot for best air circulation and drainage. For most citrus, you'll need a 15-gallon container.

When relocating your plant outdoors (when the temperature warms to about 65 degrees), place it in incrementally more sun so it doesn't go into shock; do the opposite when moving it inside. Before it comes indoors, shower it with warm, slightly soapy water (using a mild soap) to help eliminate bugs.