If you haven't bought a cookbook in a while --
for yourself or as a gift for your favorite gourmet -- now is the time, and
Susan Spicer's Crescent City Cooking with Paula Disbrowe (Knopf,
2007, $35) is the one. Full of tantalizing recipes, practical tips, and
wonderful remembrances, this book is bound to become a favorite.
Spicer, of
the New Orleans restaurants Bayona and Herbsaint, shares her secrets for
the perfect pantry. Each recipe has an engaging introduction, which might
include tips about cooking methods, an alternative way to serve, reasons
certain ingredients were chosen, or personal anecdotes. We sat down with
Spicer to discuss her career and her cookbook.
Southern Accents: You've cooked all over the
world. What was one of your most memorable experiences?
Susan Spicer: Cooking in Bangkok at The Oriental Hotel was just amazing. There were about
eight different restaurants in the hotel, and every morning, the ladies who
prepared the Thai dishes for several of the restaurants would bring us some
incredibly fragrant, steaming concoction and then stand there giggling and
watching us while we devoured it. Talk about spicy! My tolerance and
appreciation for chilies turned into a serious craving by the end of the
two weeks. One time I smelled something so heavenly that I walked around to
see what it was, and they were dumping a huge basketful of jasmine flowers
into one of their stockpots!
SA: Your mother inspired you to love cooking and
entertaining. How did she do that?
SS: I would sit on the kitchen counter
watching her prepare dinner for all nine of us. Later, I loved to help her
get ready for the dinner parties she was always having (and still has at
least once a week, at the age of 86). I didn't realize that what she
was doing was something called mise en place (having all your ingredients
ready before starting to cook), which I would learn the importance of many
years later in a professional kitchen.
SA: When you decided to open Bayona, how did you go
about preparing the menu, and what were your primary influences?
SS: I
trained mostly with French chefs but got wanderlust from my naval officer
dad and a global palate from my European mom. So when I finally opened my
own place, I decided to let myself explore the world from a cook's
perspective. And there's no denying the powerful influence of being
raised around the cuisine and ingredients of New Orleans. That's why
sometimes we make crayfish étouffée, and sometimes we make
crayfish curry.
ONLINE EXCLUSIVE: Recipes from Crescent City Cooking