Recipes From Cresent City Cooking
Louisiana Spice
Bring a bit of New Orleans into your kitchen with a glimpse at acclaimed chef Susan Spicer's first cookbook
Chef Susan Spicer recommends Espresso Pôts de Crème for a dinner party.
Spicer's cookbook offers recipes as well as sources for specialty ingredients, such as Louisiana popcorn rice.
by Alice Welsh Doyle
Photos by Chris Granger


If you haven't bought a cookbook in a while -- for yourself or as a gift for your favorite gourmet -- now is the time, and Susan Spicer's Crescent City Cooking with Paula Disbrowe (Knopf, 2007, $35) is the one. Full of tantalizing recipes, practical tips, and wonderful remembrances, this book is bound to become a favorite.

Spicer, of the New Orleans restaurants Bayona and Herbsaint, shares her secrets for the perfect pantry. Each recipe has an engaging introduction, which might include tips about cooking methods, an alternative way to serve, reasons certain ingredients were chosen, or personal anecdotes. We sat down with Spicer to discuss her career and her cookbook.

Southern Accents: You've cooked all over the world. What was one of your most memorable experiences?
Susan Spicer: Cooking in Bangkok at The Oriental Hotel was just amazing. There were about eight different restaurants in the hotel, and every morning, the ladies who prepared the Thai dishes for several of the restaurants would bring us some incredibly fragrant, steaming concoction and then stand there giggling and watching us while we devoured it. Talk about spicy! My tolerance and appreciation for chilies turned into a serious craving by the end of the two weeks. One time I smelled something so heavenly that I walked around to see what it was, and they were dumping a huge basketful of jasmine flowers into one of their stockpots!

SA: Your mother inspired you to love cooking and entertaining. How did she do that?
SS: I would sit on the kitchen counter watching her prepare dinner for all nine of us. Later, I loved to help her get ready for the dinner parties she was always having (and still has at least once a week, at the age of 86). I didn't realize that what she was doing was something called mise en place (having all your ingredients ready before starting to cook), which I would learn the importance of many years later in a professional kitchen.

SA: When you decided to open Bayona, how did you go about preparing the menu, and what were your primary influences?
SS: I trained mostly with French chefs but got wanderlust from my naval officer dad and a global palate from my European mom. So when I finally opened my own place, I decided to let myself explore the world from a cook's perspective. And there's no denying the powerful influence of being raised around the cuisine and ingredients of New Orleans. That's why sometimes we make crayfish étouffée, and sometimes we make crayfish curry.


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