The Breakers

In my next life, I'll begin each day with breakfast outdoors, and I'll practice yoga on a veranda overlooking an ocean so blue that I'll wonder if color was added to the water. The most stressful part of my afternoons will revolve around a single decision―whether to have a massage before I plant myself on a chaise by the pool or après soleil. And shopping will require no more effort than it takes to stroll up a three-block stretch of tony designer boutiques and back again. That's next time.

In this life, indulging in such civilized pursuits requires a plan. Which is how I ended up at The Breakers in Palm Beach.

When I told friends I was spending a weekend at the fabled resort best known for attracting blue bloods such as the Rockefellers, Vanderbilts, and Astors, the response invariably was, "To do what?" My reply: "As little as possible."

I used to be very good at that. But real life has a way of infusing even downtime with a sense of urgency. This was my chance to reconnect with my lazy bones in a grand way. My agenda was as simple as it was indulgent―long walks on the beach, spa treatments, a little shopping, a lot of pampering.

Fifteen years ago, I'm not sure I would have chosen The Breakers. Sure, the cachet has always been pretty irresistible: This is the place oil magnate Henry Flagler built in 1896. (Actually, he built the Palm Beach Inn, but when guests began requesting rooms "over by the breakers," he increased the hotel's size and renamed it The Breakers.) After two fires destroyed the property, the hotel reopened in 1926, modeled after the Villa Medici in Rome.

So even though I've always loved the idea of this hotel set on 140 lush acres of oceanfront property, it was never on my must-see list. But then I heard about the face-lift―$15 million worth of improvements each year for the past 15 years. Not only were the hotel's 560 guest rooms and both golf courses renovated, but a spa, beach club, and family entertainment center were also added, along with 20 splendid beachfront bungalows. All of this made The Breakers ideal for my solo weekend.

BEST ROOMS

• Each of the 20 new private bungalows looks out to one of four pools (and the Atlantic beyond) and offers an open-sky shower with Acqua di Parma bath products, flat-screen television, a couple of chaise longues, and a refrigerator stocked with, well, pretty much whatever you want (just place your order with your own private concierge). Price: $735 per day in the winter (high season) and $179 in the summer; be sure to book in advance. Available for day rental only.
• Ask for the Imperial Suite. Like a cool pied-à-terre, the 1,650-square-foot suite has a king-size bed, 52-inch plasma television, dining room that seats eight, and whirlpool tub. The pièce de résistance: five separate private balconies overlooking the Atlantic. Price: from $2,050 to $3,980, depending on the season.
   

To set the pace, I reserved Reef Beach Bungalow No. 21 for my first afternoon, then promptly booked a deep-tissue massage at the bungalow.

In the same way you signal that you're about to veer into the exit lane on the freeway, sometimes you need to send your body, soul, and psyche a signal that you're about to experience something altogether different. My 80-minute massage -- with the doors wide open so that I could hear the sounds of the ocean―was my signal. Ellen, a massage therapist with magic fingers, arrived, and within minutes, I could feel the knots begin to dissolve.

The next day mirrored that imagined day in my next life, beginning with my breakfast. I grabbed The New York Times, along with a banana nut muffin and a very large cup of Illy coffee at the hotel's News & Gourmet Shop, then wandered out to the Palm Courtyard, arguably the most tranquil spot at The Breakers. After a late-morning yoga class on the Ocean Terrace, I walked down South County Road to Worth Avenue for lunch at Ta-boó, a local favorite. After lunch, I did some window-shopping at designer stores such as Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Chanel, Bottega Veneta, and Cartier.

I looked at the pricey designer wares and watched the Rolls-Royces cruise down the avenue. But it wasn't until I glimpsed a tan woman in a sundress pushing a pink baby stroller that my picture of Palm Beach seemed complete. As I got closer, I looked into the stroller, only to discover a perfectly coiffed puppy. At that moment, I realized what it means to be away from it all.

For more information on The Breakers, call 888/273-2537 or visit www.thebreakers.com.

GOOD EATS

• Brunch: The Circle at The Breakers: The buffet is almost beside the point. The draw is the fabulous ocean views and the soaring 30-foot frescoed ceilings. Eight oval murals depict Renaissance landscapes, including the Villa Medici and the famous Tivoli Gardens. 888/273-2537.
• Lunch: Ta-boó Restaurant: Ask for Table No. 1. On a clear day -- and every day's clear in Palm Beach -- the windows alongside Ta-boó's premier table open onto the sidewalk and you're one with swells strolling the avenue. 221 Worth Ave., 561/835-3500.
• Dinner: The Seafood Bar at The Breakers: Skip the restaurant and find a spot at the aquarium bar. Order the bacon-infused tuna steak with a side order of truffle gorgonzola fries. Gaze at the fish and don't even think about calories. 888/273-2537.