Generally, Louisville enjoys a quiet bustle. But once
a year all the city races: Derby weekend, when horses and pulses and
bartenders quicken. With sprigs of mint and splashes of bourbon,
Millionaire's Row at Churchill Downs is surely the most thrilling
place to be in May. The Run for the Roses is thoroughbred racing at its
best -- a scene reminiscent of F. Scott Fitzgerald's Jazz Age, when
sports were genteel and boisterous pleasures required the most glamorous of
hats.
The rest of the year, the city runs at a more relaxed
clip, with an unpretentious hospitality and a traditional sensibility.
Grand estates nestled on the banks of the Ohio River give way to winding
roads that lead to neighborhoods with names like Cherokee Triangle and
Indian Hills. Though named after France's Louis XVI, Louisville has a
character more likely informed by the Speed family, whose 1816
Federal-style residence, Farmington, is now a well-tended historic house
museum. The Speed Art Museum, the largest art museum in the state,
underwent a $12 million renovation in the late 1990s and has plans for
another major expansion.
Of course, no trip is complete without checking out
the shopping scene. The best shops are concentrated mostly downtown or in
the easternmost part of the city. Elaine Claire Antiques on Market Street
offers a great selection of French antiques and decorative accessories and
is within walking distance of several galleries and restaurants that
have sprung up during the city's urban renewal. "Downtown is
really becoming a destination," says proprietor Elaine Bordogna. Also
on Market Street is Glassworks, which offers three studios for artists, as
well as a gallery for fine handblown wares. And Architectural Salvage on
East Broadway is for treasure hunters, with rooms and courtyards full of
gems waiting to be discovered.
On Lexington Road, a short drive east of downtown,
find English and Continental furniture and accessories at Trace Mayer
Antiques, as well as at the adjoining Steve Tipton Antiques. Eclectic
Bardstown Road is home to Frances Lee Jasper Oriental Rugs and two of
Louisville's beloved restaurants: Jack Fry's and Lilly's.
At Jack Fry's, it's the memorabilia-peppered setting that
won't let you forget you're in Louisville; at Lilly's,
it's the local ingredients.
Because the city is situated on the edge of the
Bluegrass region and separated from Indiana by the river, Louisville and
its surrounding area are often referred to as Kentuckiana. Much of the
charm here comes from the horses, the rolling hills, and the long tradition
of distilleries and good taste. But whether you visit for the glamour and
rush of the Kentucky Derby or the simple pleasures of a quiet weekend and a
stroll through the scenic waterfront park, downtown is where you'll
want to unwind.
