Despite ever-looming deadlines and untimely bouts of writer's block, this job comes with perks -- such as my recent trip to Palm Beach for our travel story on the city. A late flight meant I arrived on the island around midnight and hastily checked in to a nondescript hotel for the night.
I checked out first thing the next morning, not because of the typical hotel décor, so-so breakfast, or dull bathroom (truth be told, this is the kind of joint I'm used to staying in). But I had an oceanfront room waiting for me at The Breakers.
The approach to the hotel is picture-perfect -- green lawn and towering palm trees framing the Italian Renaissance façade. I valeted my rented Subaru (a bit out of place among the Aston Martins and Maseratis) and entered the lobby, fancying myself a modern-day Marjorie Merriweather Post stopping by the hotel to kick off the season. Unfortunately, there was no time to indulge my fantasy. I had an appointment with the public relations manager.
The Breakers is one of the few family-owned resorts in the world and, at more than 100 years old, has an incredible history. As we were photographing the grounds for the story, I got a quick tour of the property. If you're visiting on your own, do sneak a peek at the magnificent ballrooms -- absolutely gorgeous painted and gold-leafed ceilings. Better yet, explore the hotel with 90-year-old resident historian James Ponce, who leads weekly tours.
Other noteworthy tidbits: The property actually has three master sommeliers -- a prestigious and hard-earned title -- on staff. There are only 158 worldwide. And if I were truly living the Palm Beach life, I'd have skipped the photo shoot and rented one of the hotel's new beach bungalows for the day. They come complete with a full bath and open-sky shower, a flat-panel television, a fridge (stocked by request), and your own concierge.
But this time, I was off to Café Boulud at the Brazilian Court, where we were photographing Amy Lagae and Tracy Smith, who shared with me some of their favorite spots on the island. The duo own House of Lavande, a vintage couture jewelry shop. Fashion followers have likely seen some of their collection in recent issues of Harper's Bazaar and Vogue. They are superstylish with a penchant for all things Parisian and have a fun blog on their Web site (www.houseoflavande.com).
The afternoon was spent taking shots around town, winding up with an invitation to the home of designer Mimi McMakin, whose family has been on the island since 1890. She has an enchanting home in the original Bethesda-by-the-Sea Episcopal Church and has very much kept the welcoming spirit of the house/church alive by leaving the original path to the front door and not obscuring the residence with the island's signature hedges.
Back at the hotel for the evening, I had a surprise in my room: an entire plate of candies -- most impressive was the miniature hotel made of chocolate (take off the roof and there are more sweets inside). We had dinner plans at the hotel's Seafood Bar (a casual vibe with no reservations required), but I began and ended the meal with dessert.
The next morning we were off to capture some livability shots for the magazine, showcasing some neighborhoods on the island. Seems like it'd be easy to get a shot of a pretty house, but they are all behind 20-foot hedges. As we stopped to get a shot in one North End neighborhood, we drew attention from the neighborhood concierge. We were unknowingly on private property and politely asked to leave.
If you're thinking of taking a stroll to peek behind the ficus walls, you'll discover few, if any, sidewalks. Your best bet will be a walk or bike ride down Lake Trail alongside Lake Worth.
Our final day of shooting ended, and after multiple meals of chichi food, I craved a burger and fries. Hamburger Heaven was just the spot, and I settled into a booth, placed my order, and read the day's Shiny Sheet (the locals' name for The Palm Beach Daily News).
At the hotel, the valet was backed up -- likely because it was a Friday evening. But I didn't mind waiting because it was there that I had a minor celeb sighting. The woman to my left looked like Ann Coulter (her scowl at the valet jam-up lent credence to my suspicions).
CNN was filming Lou Dobbs Tonight in front of the hotel. Maybe she was there for that? Wanting to get the scoop, I decided to perch myself on a sofa in the lobby rather than head up to my room. There was fabulous people-watching, but I didn't see anyone else I recognized. I did get confirmation that Ann Coulter was in town speaking at the conservative gathering Restoration Weekend (as was Dobbs).
Oh well … then it was back up to my room for more chocolate.
To read Mary Beth's selections for dining, shopping, exploring, and staying in Palm Beach, pick up a March-April 2008 issue of Southern Accents magazine.
