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Pochoir Prints
Inspired in part by Japanese woodcuts, pochoir prints represented the changing aesthetics of the time, as in La Femme a L'Éventail (Robe du soir, de Worth) by Drian for la Gazette du Bon Ton, Paris, 1920.
(Photo: Courtesy of Lyons Limited Antique Prints)
That whimsy and wit have become the hallmark of the pochoir technique, which originally appeared in publications such as la Gazette du Bon Ton, a fashion magazine published from 1912 to 1925 that became a kind of bible for the urban leisure class (it was eventually bought by Vogue). Its mission was to report on "the new lifestyle," providing information about travel, theater, and fashion.

The Gazette featured the work of many leading artists, including fashion illustrators George Barbier and Georges Lepape and painters Raoul Dufy and Thayht. These artists were often commissioned to create pochoir plates for cutting edge Parisian fashion houses, such as Worth, Lanvin, and Poiret, and the plates would eventually show up in the Gazette.

The manual labor involved in the pochoir technique was both its glory and its demise. Mechanized techniques such as lithography and serigraphy, which increased reproduction capabilities, eventually replaced the laborious process. Today these prints, especially those in which costumes are contrasted against a detailed interior background scene, are among the most collectible fashion prints. They often involve a fluid female form in front of a more structured decorative element, such as a woman burning a piece of paper with a candle in front of an intricate stretch of wallpaper.

Because the interest in pochoir prints is a fairly recent phenomenon, it's not hard to find them in good condition. "They were almost too avant-garde coming out of World War I," explains Lyons, "so interest didn't really pick up until interest in modernism began to grow." Which means that most prints were kept in portfolios or magazines until recently, sparing them the trimming, staining, and gluing to cardboard that many earlier prints received -- another benefit of their "dare to be different" vibe.


JUST THE FACTS
What to look for: Most knowledgeable collectors collect either on the basis of names, with Poiret, Lepape, and Barbier being the most coveted, or on the basis of prints with particular kinds of fashion, such as hats, theater gowns, or sporting apparel.
Expect to pay: Anywhere from $120 to $900.
Buyer beware: Digital imagery has brought on a rise in fakes. According to Leila Lyons, owner of Lyons Limited Antique Prints in Palo Alto, California, the best way to spot a fake is to magnify it and then examine the way the stencils overlap. "They can't be too perfect," she says. "Look for colors that break down into patterns -- dots and dashes -- a sure sign of photo-mechanical reproduction."


RESOURCES: All prints from Lyons Limited Antique Prints, 800/596-6758, www.lyonsltd.com.
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