We're so used to referring to sheets, tablecloths, and napkins as linens that
we often forget the term is specific to a fiber -- that of the hardy flax plant.
Today, our domestic fabrics are typically woven of cotton, but historically,
linen yarn was more common due to its resilience and absorbency.
European linens, particularly those of France, Belgium, and Ireland, have
always been cherished. Their beauty and quality can be hard to duplicate with
contemporary equivalents.
Perhaps it's the notion of the bridal trousseau that infuses antique textiles
with romance. Fresh new fabrics gathered together in anticipation of a marriage
bring the hopes of generations to the table.
Grandmothers were often charged
with monogramming napkins and tablecloths for the young women in the family,
weaving both femininity and practicality into the domestic necessities that
would outfit their futures.
These treasured linens would customarily be passed
down through the generations, sometimes acquiring new initials along the way.
Romance aside, "linen was really the workhorse textile," says Linda Baumgarten,
curator of textiles and costumes at Colonial Williamsburg. "It was often used
for underwear, sheets, and workers' clothing. It did come in different degrees
of quality, however, and finer grades were available for the wealthier people."
Regardless of quality, every inch of fabric was valued. "Even the nicer ones
have quarter-inch hems," says Baumgarten. "And on linen damask, you'll see that
the selvages were used to make the most of the fabric."
