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Wood Primer
Identifing wood can be an elaborate process. Use these tricks to flesh out your antique's true provenance
"Understanding antique furniture means more than understanding style," says antiques dealer Clinton Howell. "The dark walnut wood in this circa 1820 Dutch linen press provided another clue about its provenance."
(Photo: Pieter Estersohn)
The first recorded use of mahogany in England was at Nottingham Castle in 1680. This George III bowfront side table has boxwood stringing.
(Photo: Courtesy of Christie's, Ltd.)
by Logan Ward

New York antiques dealer Clinton Howell knows a thing or two about wood. His training in cabinet-timber identification paid off not too long ago when Howell got a call from a London-based dealer with whom he jointly owns a Gainsborough chair, circa 1760, with distinctive rails carved from ash. "He had found an almost identical chair at Sotheby's," explains Howell. "When I saw the ash rails, I knew it was part of a set." They bought the chair, reuniting the pair and greatly increasing their value.

"Provenance is more than just the history of ownership," says Michael Podmaniczky, former senior furniture conservator at Delaware's Winterthur Museum. "In what country and region was an antique made? Who made it? Knowing the wood in an antique can be one more kernel of information to help you place the piece."

Identifying wood can be a complicated process, but armed with a few tricks -- and a common magnifying glass or 10x jeweler's loupe -- even beginners can decipher clues hidden in the grain of a wood. It's a step-by-step process of ruling out choices. "You're not trying to determine the timber straight-away," says Howell. "The first step is deciding whether it's softwood or hardwood."

Minute openings called pores are key in distinguishing between woods. The most obvious difference between hardwoods and softwoods is that softwoods do not have pores, while hardwoods do. Differentiating between softwood species is extremely difficult, but here's a clue: Only four softwoods -- spine, spruce, larch, and Douglas fir -- have resin canals, seen as little flecks of brown or white in a cross-section of the wood. Other softwoods, such as cedar, cypress, and hemlock, have no resin canals and, therefore, no flecks.



WEB EXTRA: CARING FOR ANTIQUE WOOD
Regardless of the timber type, keeping your wood antiques clean and well-protected is essential. Nancy Rosebrock, conservation manager of Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina, gives these tips for caring for your prized wood pieces.

· Always protect wood from water by using coasters and immediately wiping up spills.
· Clean by dusting with a soft cotton rag or electrostatic dustcloth. Avoid spray-on furniture polishes, whose harmful additives can damage wood and its finish.
· Don't apply oil, which actually attracts dirt over time. "A big misconception is that you need to 'feed' the wood," says Rosebrock. "If it looks dry and cracked, that means it has been subjected to abuse; you shouldn't try to bring it back to life with oils and polishes." Doing so might compromise the piece's value.
· Instead of oil, apply a paste wax (such as SC Johnson or Behlen) once a year-but only if the wood finish is intact. If the finish is missing, flaky, or sugary, the wax may taint the wood. To avoid off-color wax buildup, match the wax to the wood's color. For carved surfaces, apply with a stencil brush, and buff with a soft cloth.
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