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| Wood Primer |
| Identifing wood can be an elaborate process. Use these tricks to flesh out your antique's true provenance |
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"Understanding antique furniture means more
than understanding style," says antiques dealer Clinton Howell.
"The dark walnut wood in this circa 1820 Dutch linen press provided
another clue about its provenance." (Photo: Pieter Estersohn) |
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The first recorded use of mahogany in England was at
Nottingham Castle in 1680. This George III bowfront side table has boxwood
stringing. (Photo: Courtesy of Christie's, Ltd.) |
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by Logan Ward
New York antiques dealer Clinton Howell knows a thing
or two about wood. His training in cabinet-timber identification paid off
not too long ago when Howell got a call from a London-based dealer with
whom he jointly owns a Gainsborough chair, circa 1760, with distinctive
rails carved from ash. "He had found an almost identical chair at
Sotheby's," explains Howell. "When I saw the ash rails, I
knew it was part of a set." They bought the chair, reuniting the pair
and greatly increasing their value.
"Provenance is more than just the history of
ownership," says Michael Podmaniczky, former senior furniture
conservator at Delaware's Winterthur Museum. "In what country
and region was an antique made? Who made it? Knowing the wood in an antique can be one more kernel of information to help you place the piece."
Identifying wood can be a complicated process, but
armed with a few tricks -- and a common magnifying glass or 10x
jeweler's loupe -- even beginners can decipher clues hidden in the
grain of a wood. It's a step-by-step process of ruling out choices.
"You're not trying to determine the timber
straight-away," says Howell. "The first step is deciding
whether it's softwood or hardwood."
Minute openings called pores are key in
distinguishing between woods. The most obvious difference between hardwoods and softwoods is that softwoods do not have pores, while hardwoods do.
Differentiating between softwood species is extremely difficult, but
here's a clue: Only four softwoods -- spine, spruce, larch, and Douglas
fir -- have resin canals, seen as little flecks of brown or white in a
cross-section of the wood. Other softwoods, such as cedar, cypress, and
hemlock, have no resin canals and, therefore, no flecks.
| WEB EXTRA: CARING FOR ANTIQUE WOOD |
Regardless of the timber type, keeping your wood
antiques clean and well-protected is essential. Nancy Rosebrock,
conservation manager of Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina, gives
these tips for caring for your prized wood pieces.
· Always protect wood from water by using coasters
and immediately wiping up spills.
· Clean by dusting with a soft cotton rag or
electrostatic dustcloth. Avoid spray-on furniture polishes, whose harmful
additives can damage wood and its finish.
· Don't apply oil, which actually attracts dirt over
time. "A big misconception is that you need to 'feed' the
wood," says Rosebrock. "If it looks dry and cracked, that means
it has been subjected to abuse; you shouldn't try to bring it back to life
with oils and polishes." Doing so might compromise the piece's value.
· Instead of oil, apply a paste wax (such as SC
Johnson or Behlen) once a year-but only if the wood finish is intact. If
the finish is missing, flaky, or sugary, the wax may taint the wood. To
avoid off-color wax buildup, match the wax to the wood's color. For carved
surfaces, apply with a stencil brush, and buff with a soft cloth. |
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